2 red 5-,5,5+
  • Zéro 5+, arete. Above the boulder of Le Cétacé , along the right branch of the path towards Ironman . Standing start with the arete right hand and exit as forMoins 4.
  • Finissage 5 , wall, crimps. On the boulder to the opposite of Le Gouffre . Standing start with a sidepull in a crack and exit with crimps.
  •   3 black 6a,6a+,6b
  • Ghettofüschtli 6a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. To the opposite of Le Cétacé , just before going up to the sector of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart at the left angle and exit above.
  • Orbital 6b, slightly overhanging, bidoigt. In a slightly overhanging wall exposed to the South, just under the crest in the east of the sector. Standing start and climb the overhang by a big move towards bidoigts.
  • Quantum 6b, wall, expo, crimps. Just left of Orbital. Standing start without crash-pad and climb the wall on crimps.
  •   28 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
  • Baby Break Dance 6c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, slopers. in the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart in the overhang with the two hand on the good hold and exit on slopers.
  • Le Dauphin 6c+, wall. left problem on the West face of "Les Cétacés", 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Standing start to the left of the dyno of Le Cétacé and exit above. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak.
  • Double T 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart, underclings. On an isolated boulder, in the South-East of the sector, in the middle of the slope between the parking of Rumont and taht of Grandes Vallées. Sitstart right as for Trafalgarand exit left in Tzatziki.
  • Breaker Killa 6c+, wall, prow, sitstart. in the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart under the bowl with a sloper right hand and a bidoigt left hand and exit directly in the wall. see also : Breaker Killa direct 7b
  • Biomimétisme 6c+, wall, mantle, sitstart. 20m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Standing start with an undercling left hand and a good crimp right hand and exit directly. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak. see also : Biomimétisme en traversée 7c+ (7c)
  • La Petite Ardoise 6c+, wall, high, crimps. On the left of Triptyque, on the crest in front of Le Rocher aux Voleurs. Standing start without crash-pad and climb the wall directly.
  • Label Bio 6c+, prow, expo, sitstart. left problem on the South-West face of "Le Bloc des 4 Fantastiques" (big boulder with pockets 20m above and to the right of Fracture Asociale ). Sitstart and exit by the prow.
  • Yamakasi 6c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the boulder to the left of Guérilla , 150m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, on the crest in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart to the left at a trunk and exit directly. see also : Yamakasi en traversée 7b (7a+)
  • Triptyque 6c, wall, high, crimps. On the crest in front of Le Rocher aux Voleurs. Standing start without crash-pad and climb the wall above.
  • La Torche Humaine 6c, slightly overhanging, expo, gaten. on the South-West face of "Le Bloc des 4 Fantastiques" (big boulder with pockets 20m above and to the right of Fracture Asociale ). Sitstart on the right with a good hold, climb the overhang diagonally to the left and exit just left of the top of the boulder.
  • Lune d’Opale 6c, traverse, gaten. on the boulder just right of Les Ombres d’Opaline . Start left, traverse to the right on pockets and exit just after the round angle.
  • La Femme Invisible 6b+, slab, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the South-West face of "Le Bloc des 4 Fantastiques" (big boulder with pockets 20m above and to the right of Fracture Asociale ). Sitstart on the right with a good hold as for La Torche Humaine and exit directly by the slab.
  • Moins 4 6c, arete, sitstart, traverse. Above the boulder of Le Cétacé , along the right branch of the path towards Ironman . Sitstart without crash-pad nearly laying on the ground, with a big pocket left hand, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit with the arete right hand.
  • Moment d’Égarement droite 6c, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on the South face of the boulder 40m above Fracture Asociale . Sitstart and exit to the right. see also : Moment d’Égarement 7a+ (7b)
  • Moins 3 6b+, wall, sitstart, traverse. Above the boulder of Le Cétacé , along the right branch of the path towards Ironman . Sitstart nearly laying on the ground, with a big pocket left hand and traverse to the left as for Moins 4 but exit directly in the wall before the arete.
  • The Baudot Roof 6b+, roof, mantle, sitstart. in the North face, just under the crest, 100m to the West of Freestyle . Sitstart on the sand to the right of the roof, climb that one and exit by a mantle on the right.
  • En Attendant Pierrot 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. On the boulder to the opposite of Les Pinces d’Or. Sitstart with a left hand pocket and a right hand crimp and exit above.
  • Le Gouffre 6c+, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on the boulder above Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart at the ledge and exit with the arete left hand. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : La Traversée du Gouffre 7a (7a+)
  • Frustration 6b+, mantle, traverse, slopers. On the small boulder under Sérénité . Sitstart right, traverse on slopers and mantle up without using the arete.
  • Sky 6b+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. at the bottom of the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart with an undercling right hand and a sloper left hand and exit above.
  • Problème de Méthode 6c, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on the boulder above Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart to the right of Le Gouffre and exit above with the arete right hand. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m.
  • L’Épineux 6c, crack, sitstart, crimps. On an isolated boulder, in the North-East of the sector. Sitstart in the overhang as for Obépine Kénobi and exit right with the crack. Access : from Freestyle , reach Le Chemin des 100 Marches to the North and walk 100m to the East; the boulder is 100m up the slope to the North.
  • Ball Breaker gauche 6c+, slightly overhanging, expo. at the bottom of the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Standing start in the pit and exit on the left. see also : Ball Breaker 7c (7b+)
  • Le Marsouin 6c+, wall, mantle, slopers. right problem on the South face of "Les Cétacés", 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Standing start to as for Bal-Haine , traverse on slopers and exit by a mantle above the prow of La Planète Bio . Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak. see also : Bal-Haine 6a+ (6b)
  • Tzatziki 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart, underclings. On an isolated boulder, in the South-East of the sector, in the middle of the slope between the parking of Rumont and taht of Grandes Vallées. Sitstart left, climb the overhang with underclings and exit at the top.
  • Jabulani 6c+, prow, expo, sitstart. at the top of the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart with the two hands on the low hold and exit on the prow above a small boulder on the ground.
  • L’Orque 6b+, arete, sitstart. sitstart of the central arete on the boulder of "Les Cétacés", 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak.
  • Trafalgar 6c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, underclings. On the boulder of Tzatziki, in the South-East of the sector, in the middle of the slope between the parking of Rumont and taht of Grandes Vallées. Sitstart right, climb the overhang with underclings and exit on slopers.
  •   30 white 7a,7a+,7b
  • Breaker Killa direct 7b, prow, sitstart. in the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart under the bowl with a sloper right hand and a bidoigt left hand and exit directly in the prow. see also : Breaker Killa 6c (7a)
  • Ça se Mange sans Faim 7a, wall, mantle, sitstart. on the boulder underneath Le Royaume des Saucisses , to the left of the small path, just before the boulder of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart without using the good holds on the left and exit directly by a mantle. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m.
  • Filature (assis) 7a+, arete, sitstart. Sitstart as for Détectif (assis) and climb the marbled arete on its left.
  • La Fosse des Mariannes 7b, slightly overhanging. on the West face of a boulder 20m above and to the left of Fracture Asociale . Standing start in a pit and exit directly. see also : La Fosse des Mariannes assis 7c (7b+)
  • Le Cétacé 7b, wall, dyno. on the West face of "Les Cétacés", 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Standing start to the right of Le Dauphin and exit above. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak.
  • Détectif 7a, slightly overhanging. In the North slope, in between Tzatziki and L’Escamoteur, 100m above Le Chemin des 100 Marches, at its crossing with the path that gets around Les Rochers aux Voleurs. Standing start to the right of the arete and exit directly.
  • Mr Fantastique 7a, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on the South-West face of "Le Bloc des 4 Fantastiques" (big boulder with pockets 20m above and to the right of Fracture Asociale ). Sitstart on the right with a good hold as for La Torche Humaine and exit at the top of the boulder with the arete right hand.
  • La Planète Bio 7b, prow, sitstart. on the boulder just right of the one of "Les Cétacés", 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Sitstart (without crash-pad) and exit by the prow.Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak.
  • Potron-Minet 7a, wall, slopers, crimps. On the boulder of Triptyque, on the crest in front of Le Rocher aux Voleurs. Standing start without crash-pad on the left, climb the wall to the right with the slopy arete and exit just before La Petite Ardoise.
  • La Chose 7a+, dyno, mantle, underclings. right problem on the South-West face of "Le Bloc des 4 Fantastiques" (big boulder with pockets 20m above and to the right of Fracture Asociale ). Sitstart completely right with an undercling right hand, dyno to the left and exit by a mantle.
  • Guérilleros 7a+, arete, expo, sitstart. on the boulder of Guérilla , 150m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, on the crest in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart to the left of Guérilla , climb the wall/arete and exit at the top of the arete.
  • Orbital (assis) 7a, slightly overhanging, bidoigt. In a slightly overhanging wall exposed to the South, just under the crest in the east of the sector. Sitstart left on the stone, climb the overhang and exit by a big move towards bidoigts.
  • Moment d’Égarement 7a+, wall, belly, sitstart. on the South face of the boulder 40m above Fracture Asociale . Sitstart and exit directly. see also : Moment d’Égarement droite 6c
  • Yamakasi en traversée 7b, slightly overhanging, expo, traverse. on the boulder to the left of Guérilla , 150m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, on the crest in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart to the left at a trunk, traverse with top holds and exit to the right. see also : Yamakasi 6c+ (7a)
  • Quantum (assis) 7a, wall, expo, crimps. Just left of Orbital. Sitstart without crash-pad as for Orbital (assis) and climb the wall to the left on crimps.
  • Ironman 7a+, roof, sitstart. in the North face, just under the crest, 100m to the West of Freestyle . Sitstart on the sand to the right of the roof as for The Baudot Roof , traverse to the left and exit by a mantle. see also : Ironman en boucle 7b+ (7b)
  • Cantique Mécanique 7b, traverse. 50m to the left and underneath Fracture Asociale .
  • La Traversée du Gouffre 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the boulder above Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart as for Problème de Méthode , traverse to the left and exit in Le Gouffre . Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : Le Gouffre 6c+ (7a)
  • Les Couilles d’Or 7b, arete, expo. High arete just left of Les Pinces d’Or. Standing start with the two hands on the arete.
  • Aux Frais de la Princesse 7a, slightly overhanging, expo. on the West face of the boulder of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart on the stone with two horizontal holds and exit in the overhang. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : Aux Frais de la Princesse en traversée 7c+ (8a)
  • La Femme Invisible (direct) 7a, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart. Game on the boulder of "Les 4 Fantastiques". Sitstart as for La Femme Invisible and dyno directly to the big jug.
  • Sérénité debout 7a, roof. left problem in the big overhang of The Island , under the crest, in the Western part of the sector. Start on the right of the left face of the roof and exit directly. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 50m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path to the North. see also : Sérénité 7b
  • Gueule de Crocodile 7b, prow. on the boulder to the right of Le Royaume des Saucisses . Sitstart with a good hold and exit directly (morpho). Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m.
  • Obépine Kénobi 7b, arete, sitstart, crimps. On an isolated boulder, in the North-East of the sector. Sitstart in the overhang and exit left with the arete. Access : from Freestyle , reach Le Chemin des 100 Marches to the North and walk 100m to the East; the boulder is 100m up the slope to the North.
  • Sérénité 7b, roof, sitstart. left problem in the big overhang of The Island , under the crest, in the Western part of the sector. Sitstart in the left face of the roof and exit to the right using a foot hook and a mantle. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 50m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path to the North. see also : Sérénité debout 7a (7a+)
  • Le Royaume des Saucisses 7b, wall, sitstart. on the boulder to the left of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart with a good hold as for Let There be Rock , but exit to the left with the arete left hand. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : Let There be Rock 7a+ (7b)
  • Détectif (assis) 7a+, slightly overhanging, roof, sitstart. In the North slope, in between Tzatziki and L’Escamoteur, 100m above Le Chemin des 100 Marches, at its crossing with the path that gets around Les Rochers aux Voleurs. Sitstart in the back of the cave, traverse slightly to the left under the roof and exit in the wall.
  • Les Barbelés 7a+, wall, sitstart. on the boulder underneath Fracture Asociale , 50m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, by following a path from big oaks, 150m from the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère. Sitstart with an undercling left hand and exit directly.
  • Let There be Rock 7a+, wall, arete, sitstart. on the boulder to the left of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart with a good hold as for Le Royaume des Saucisses but exit on the left with the arete left hand./br> Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : Le Royaume des Saucisses 7b (7b+)
  • Filature 7a, arete. In the North slope, in between Tzatziki and L’Escamoteur, 100m above Le Chemin des 100 Marches, at its crossing with the path that gets around Les Rochers aux Voleurs. Standing start and climb the marbled arete to the left of Détectif (assis).
  •   14 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
  • Guérilla 7b+, overhang, expo. left and behind Freestyle , on the crest, in the Eastern part of the sector.
  • Ball Breaker 7c, slightly overhanging, expo. at the bottom of the chaos 30m to the left of Fracture Asociale . Standing start in the pit and exit directly. see also : Ball Breaker gauche 6c+ (7a)
  • La Fosse des Mariannes assis 7c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the West face of a boulder 20m above and to the left of Fracture Asociale . Sitstart in a pit and exit directly. see also : La Fosse des Mariannes 7b (7a+)
  • Greenzer 7b+, slightly overhanging, arete. on an isolated boulder in the North face, on the other side of the ridge, up the slope from Fracture Asociale . Standing start, climb the overhang and exit at the arete.
  • Ironman en boucle 7b+, roof, sitstart. dans un toit en rebord de platière, en face Nord, juste en dessous de la ligne de crête, près du point culminant de celle-ci, environ 100m à l’Ouest de Freestyle . Partir assis tout au fond à droite sur du sable, traverser à gauche comme dans Ironman puis à droite sur la lèvre du toit, redescendre dans The Baudot Roof et retraverser à gauche pour sortir dans Ironman . see also : Ironman 7a+ (7b)
  • Les Pinces d’Or 7c, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on the backside of the boulder above Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart between two small boulders and exit by the overhanging arete. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m.
  • Aux Frais de la Princesse en traversée 7c+, slightly overhanging, roof, expo. crouching start between two small boulders as for Gueule de Crocodile , traverse to the left in the overhang and exit in Aux Frais de la Princesse . Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m. see also : Aux Frais de la Princesse 7a
  • Kingdom of Gnom 7b+, wall, belly, sitstart. on the boulder to the left of Gueule de Crocodile . Sitstart to the right of Le Royaume des Saucisses with an undercling left hand and a small vertical hold right hand and exit in the wall/prow above. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak for 50m.
  • Fracture Asociale 7b+, overhang, crack, sitstart. 50m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, by following a path from big oaks, 150m from the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère. Sitstart, climb the crack and exit above. NB : it is also possible to use the left arete (morpho).
  • Bio Malin 7c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. 30m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Sitstart in a pit with two good holds and exit slightly right. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 200m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path at the third big oak. The boulder is on the left of that small path after the boulder of "Les Cétacés".
  • Freestyle 7c, roof, crack. roof with a wobbly flake 150m to the North of Le Chemin de Rumont, on the crest in the Eastern part of the sector.
  • Biomimétisme en traversée 7c+, sitstart, traverse, slopers. 20m above Le Chemin de Rumont, 50m after the small path towards Fracture Asociale . Standing start with an undercling left hand and a good crimp right hand as for Biomimétisme , traverse to the right on slopers and exit by the arete. see also : Biomimétisme 6c+ (7a)
  • Speed 7b+, slab, overhang, sitstart. squatted start 15m to the left of Fracture Asociale .
  • Bachibouzouk 7c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sitstart as for Les Pinces d’Or but exit on the right. See also Les Pinces d’Or.
  •   4 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
  • L’Ombriliste 8a, overhang, crimps. Start with the two hands on the ledge of the overhang of Les Ombres d’Opaline , catch the crimps in the overhang by a no foot move and exit on the other side with bidoigts without touching the pedestal.
  • Conviction 8a, roof. right problem in the big overhang of The Island , under the crest, in the Western part of the sector. Start on the right face of the overhang with two horizontal holds and exit directly. Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 50m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path to the North.
  • Les Ombres d’Opaline 8b, roof, mantle. in a big roof on the boulder above Speed, 15m above and to the left of Fracture Asociale . Standing start completely low at the pedestal and exit slightly right by a mantle (15 moves).
  • Les Ombres d’Opaline (direct) 8b, roof. in the big roof on the boulder above Speed, 15m above and to the left of Fracture Asociale . Standing start completely low at the pedestal as for Les Ombres d’Opaline but exit directly above. See also : Les Ombres d’Opaline
  •   2 Teal 8b+,8c,8c+
  • The Island 8b+, slightly overhanging, prow. Sitstart by convention from the stone right under the problem (the one just right to the pads on the picture) and exit by the prow. see also : The Big Island 8c
  • The Big Island 8c, slightly overhanging, prow. evident overhanging prow on the big boulder under the crest, in the Western part of the sector. Start from the ground (see also : The Island ). Access : follow Le Chemin de Rumont for 50m after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Boulignère and take a small path to the North.


  • Island ... The real Big !rappelons que le Coquibus est une zone préservée, il est interdit d’y tracer des circuits. Si c’est un secret de polichinelle que l’on n’y trouve de très beau blocs, surtout dans le haut niveau, nous nous devons d’être sélectif et succinct dans la divulgation des informations concernant ce massif. Nous avons donc choisi de ne rendre public qu’une sélection minimum des voies de hauts niveaux les plus intéressantes.

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