4 circuits
3 Orange 3-,3,3+
- Claire de Lune 3-. former yellow n°12.
- Dans la Gueule du Lion 3. former yellow n°39.
- Basse Énergie 3-, wall, traverse, downclimbing. former yellow n°53.
1 blue 4-,4,4+
- Angle Roc 4-. former blue n°51.
4 red 5-,5,5+
- La Boule 5 . former red n°32, underneath the actual one.
- Pour les Nèfles 5-. former red n°41, to the left of 27, Les Vacances à Bombay .
- Le Réta Commun 5-, wall, mantle. former red n°48, to the left of the exit of 35, Travaux Forcés .
- Free Willy 5 , overhang, mantle. On the right face of the boulder of 7, La Baleine .
4 black 6a,6a+,6b
- L’Éjectoire 6a+, wall. on the right face of 20, Le Doigt Carré (black n°20).
- Coup de Barre 6b, wall. on the backside of the boulder of 24bis, Le Pro-Pulse .
- Louboutin 6a+, mantle. On the small boulder at the bottom of 4, Big Jim .
- La Traversée du Désert (en traversée) 6b, traverse, gaten, sitstart. Sitstarton the right as for 17, Bidoigt pour Monocéphale , low traverse to the left and exit in 29, La Traversée du Désert .
7 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
- Conduite Rapide 6c, wall. on the backside of the boulder of 31bis, Le Mur du Son , in a pit.
- Vive les Vacances 6c, traverse. start completely left inthe corridor, traverse on crimps and exit at a jug.
- Le Chat Noir 6c+, mantle, sitstart, crimps. at the top of the sector, on the arrival boulder of the black circuit. Sitstart 1m to the right of 36, Le Chat de Gouttière (black n°36) and exit by a mantle in this problem. see also : 36, Le Chat de Gouttière 6b+
- Pieds Fins 6b+, slab, wall. between 18, Angle gauche and 17, Dans les Nuages , on a triangular boulder. Start on crimps, take the crack right hand and exit directly.
- Envolage 6c, arete, sitstart, crimps. on the left of the sector. Sitstart in the characteristic overhanging arete of 12, Les Petits Vérins and exit directly along that one. see also : 12, Les Petits Vérins 6a+
- Les Gais Lurons 6c+, wall, slopers. start in 31, La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right on slopers and exit just before 31bis, Le Mur du Son . NB : première réalisation connue par Stéphane Carcone et Gérald Coste.
- Chez Lolotte (assis) 6c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sitstart with the crack left hand and a small pocket right hand and exit in 17, Chez Lolotte .
12 white 7a,7a+,7b
- La Baleine (direct assis) 7b, overhang, sitstart, slopers. Sit start left, climb the overhang avoiding all the pinches on the arete, get the slopy lip left hand and exit as for 7, La Baleine .
- Vengeance du Triceps (assis) 7a, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart with a good hold and exit in 33, Vengeance du Triceps .
- Anarchie 7a+. Wall between 45, Le Mur de la Peur and Le Réta Commun . Start on the stone with both hands on the good hold and exit directly without the big pocket on the right.
- Convulsions 7b, traverse, bidoigt, underclings. along the GR 13, in the North of the sector. Start at the overhanging arete, traverse under the overhang, pass the second angle, traverse in the wall (return of 17, Bidoigt pour Monocéphale ) and exit via a mantle.
- Louboutin (assis) 7a, mantle, sitstart. On the small boulder at the bottom of 4, Big Jim . Sitstart and exit in Louboutin.
- Black Jim 7a, wall, high, traverse. start in 3, Les Yeux de l’Esprit , traverse to the right to exit in 4, Big Jim (black n°4).
- Le Bombyx 7a, wall, expo. in between 42, P’chy Cause and 43, Le Roncier .
- Tapis Roulant 7a, traverse, slopers. start in 5, Le Dolmen and exit in 6, Rataplazip . NB : the chipped bidoigt before the big sloper can be avoided...
- L’Œuf 7b, arete, slopers. on the right face of the boulder of 4, Big Jim .
- Ascenseur pour l’Échafaud 7a+, wall, high, gaten. near the road, on the first big boulder of the sector. Climb the wall with the holds of 4, Big Jim left hand and those of 3, Passage à l’Acte right hand and exit at the top by a dynamic move.
- La Baleine (direct) 7b, prow, slopers. Start right, climb straight up the overhanging wall avoiding all the pinches of the prow, get the slopy lip left hand and exit as for 7, La Baleine .
- Fat Big Jim / Big Jim (assis) 7a+. Situated near the road, on the big boulder at the right of the sector. Sitstart to the left and exit in 4, Big Jim . NB: top rope bolt is in place.
8 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
- Morte Plaine 7c, slopers. between 11, Le Casse Tibia (black n°11) and 12, Les Petits Vérins , above the parking lot. NB : lichened (July 2009).
- Le Poids des Soupirs 7b+, dyno. in between 42, Prise de Risque and 32, Angle et Terre , on the boulder of 31bis, Le Mur du Son .
- Paddy 7c+, wall, slopers. to the right of 66, Extorsion , to the opposite of 44, Fossse aux Ours , on the boulder above 31bis, Le Mur du Son ; morpho.
- La Psycho-Trav 7c, traverse. start in 31, La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb to the key hold of Beautiful Thing and exit with the arete. see also : La Psycho-Trav (sans l’arête) 7c+ (8a)
- La Psycho-Trav (sans l’arête) 7c+, dyno, traverse. start in 31, La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb to the key hold of Beautiful Thing and exit by the dyno of that one (without the arete). see also : La Psycho-Trav 7c (7c+)
- Maracuja 7b+, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. on an isolated boulder in the South of the sector. Sitstart, climb the overhang using the arete and exit by a mantle above. Access : from Nemours, take the D98 towards Chevrainvilliers and park the car to the opposite of Le Mont Échelé. The boulder is up the slope, to the right of the road.
- Morte Plaine (assis) 7c+, slopers, mantle, sitstart. Wall just to the left of the gully, between 12, Les Petits Vérins (black n°12) and 11, Le Casse Tibia . Sitstart with a good undercling left hand and a crimp right hand and exit as for Morte Plaine (black n°11bis).
- Camembert Électrique 7c, slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart. Sitstart as for 12, Les Petits Vérins and finish left with sloppers then good holds right of the exit of 15, Plein Vide .
7 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
- Big Dragon 8a, slightly overhanging, slopers. on the boulder with 1, Le Premier Pas , underneath 4, Big Jim . Low start with underclings and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets. see also : Big Dragon assis 8a+
- Big Dragon assis 8a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. on the boulder with 1, Le Premier Pas , underneath 4, Big Jim . Sitstart without crash-pad with the big undercling of the standing start right hand and a smaller one left hand and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets. see also : Big Dragon 8a (8a+)
- Le Mur du Son assis 8a+, wall, sitstart, crimps. sitstart of 31bis, Le Mur du Son , to the left of 32ter, Arc Angel , in a corridor.
- The Wagon Wheel 8b+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sitstart with a crack-like feature on the boulder of n°15 red and exit in that one. See also 15, Plein Vide .
- Big Dragon 8a+. On the boulder with 1, Le Premier Pas , underneath 4, Big Jim . Low start with underclings and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets. Update (March 2015): the upper undercling has broken off but the problem has been done again by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, who proposes the grade of 8a+/8b (to be compared with the initial grade of 8a/8a+).
- Big Dragon (assis) 8b. On the boulder with 1, Le Premier Pas , underneath 4, Big Jim . Sitstart without crash-pad with the big undercling of the standing start right hand and a smaller one left hand and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets.
- Opaline 8a, slopers, mantle, sitstart. Wall just to the left of the gully, between 12, Les Petits Vérins (black n°12) and 11, Le Casse Tibia . Sitstart with a good undercling left hand and a crimp right hand and exit as to the left without the gully.
Jaune AD- n°3
Bleu D n°3
Rouge TD+ n°4
Noir ED+ n°5
