L’Arête des Fesses (gauche)5-, arete, sitstart.
On the boulder just underneath the ridge, above the bivouac of the Démineur sector. Sitstart, climb the left arete and exit at the top. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Majeur5+, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
Right problem on the second boulder above the bivouac of the Démineur sector, to the left of the path that leads from the bivouac to the ridge. Sitstart. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
La Proue t’Arête5-, prow, sitstart.
On the first boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the ridge. Sitst on the pedestal and climb the right arete of the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Jachère5 , arete.
Left arete on a boulder between La Mère aux Démocrates et In Situ, in the Eastern part of the sector. Arete to the left of Ourlet.
13 black 6a,6a+,6b
Pachamama 6b, wall, expo, mantle.
on the boulder of Viracocha . Sitstart in the overhang as for Viracocha , turn to the left and exit by a mantle.
Jacuzzi 6b, slightly overhanging, crack, sitstart.
on the boulder of Viracocha . Sitstart in the overhang as for Viracocha ,
La Fissure du Bivouac6a, crack.
evident crack in the middle of the bivouac of In Extenso .
Gros Tas6a+, belly, mantle.
On the first block of the Démineur sector, just above the bivouac. Standing start with good evident holds underneath the belly and exit directly with a mantle. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Plouf6a+, dyno.
Left problem on the first boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Crouching start with the evident crimp and dyno to the top. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
La Poussée d’Art Chie Merde6a, wall.
Right problem on the first boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Start with a flat undercling and exit directly without the right arete. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
…6a+, wall.
on the left face of the boulder of Projection Privée .
Facette6a+, wall, crimps.
Wall just underneath Tristance, in the Eastern part of the sector. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
Ourlet6b, slopers, sitstart.
To the right of Jachère, on a boulder between La Mère aux Démocrates et In Situ, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sit start without crash-pad, follow the slopey ledge and exit on the left.
L’Épée 6a+, arete.
arete (of an old quarry) on the first boulder.
Spa 6b, wall.
on the left face of Viracocha . Standing start on a stone with a crack left hand and a sloper right hand, follow the vertical crack and exit at the same point as for Pachamama .
24 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
Le Suspensoir 6c, arete.
just right of Suspension de Séance .
Cartographie (droite)6b+, wall, crimps.
Wall underneath Tristance and Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Climb the wall and exit with a nipple left hand. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
Prestissimo 6c, slightly overhanging, expo.
on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct.
Inamour6c, slopers, sitstart, high.
Between Cartographie and Amalgame, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the wall with slopers, without the big holds on the right and exit with a diagonal hold left hand.
Grosso Mono direct 6c, wall, monos.
direct version (without the traverse) of Grosso Mono . see also : Grosso Mono 7a+
Amalgame6c+, wall, sitstart.
Between Inamour and Situation, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad with vertical crimps and exit directly.
Pianissimo6c, slopers, underclings.
to the left of La Fissure du Bivouac, in the bivouac of In Extenso . Standing start, climb the slightly overhanging wall with underclings and exit above on slopers. See also : Pianissimo (assis).
Situation6c+, wall, sitstart.
Wall to the right of Amalgame, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit directly.
L’Arête des Fesses (droite)6c, arete, sitstart.
On the boulder just underneath the ridge, above the bivouac of the Démineur sector. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the right arete and exit at the top. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
In Situ6c, wall, gaten, mantle.
Wall to the west of Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Start without crash-pad in the pit with a good crimp left hand and exit directly.
Mineur6c, pillar, sitstart.
Left problem on the second boulder above the bivouac of the Démineur sector, to the left of the path that leads from the bivouac to the ridge. Sitstart with the undercling. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
In Situ (droite)6b+, traverse, mantle, expo.
Wall to the west of Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Start without crash-pad in the pit with a good crimp left hand as for In Situ, traverse 2m to the right with the top holds and exit with a big hold.
Séant 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
sitstart and direct exit at the beginning of the traverse of L152 .
La Proue te Pinch6c, prow, sitstart.
On the first boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the ridge. Sitstart on the left stone and climb the left arete of the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Ourlet (direct)6c, slopers, mantle, sitstart.
To the right of Jachère, on a boulder between La Mère aux Démocrates et In Situ, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sit start without crash-pad without the big knob on the right, and exit directly on the slopey ledge.
Pole Position 6c, wall, arete.
on the boulder to the right of Petite Hyène .
Compressionel / Aux Petit Coins6c, prow, sitstart.
Left problem on the first boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Sitstart and climb the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Vagissement6c+, slopers, sitstart.
On a boulder to the west of La Mère aux Démocrates, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad with the arete right hand.
Shooting 6b+, wall.
50m to the South of the boulder of Projection Privée .
Toes6c+, prow, sitstart.
On the fourth boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left, just underneath the ridge. Sitstart and climb the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
…6b+, wall, high.
to the right of Projection Privée .
Tristance (droite)6c, pillar, gaten, sitstart.
On a boulder to the South-East of La Mère aux Démocrates, in the Eastern part of the sector, just below the plateau. Sitstart without crash-pad at the base of the pillar and exit on the right. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
Cartographie6c, wall, crimps.
Wall underneath Tristance and Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Climb the wall to the left of Inamour and exit with a nipple right hand. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
29 white 7a,7a+,7b
L152 7a+, sitstart, traverse.
sitstart in a slightly overhanging wall as for Séant , traverse to the left via a crack between two boulders and exit on the other side of the second one.
Pianissimo (assis)7a+, sitstart, slopers, underclings.
to the left of La Fissure du Bivouac, in the bivouac of In Extenso . Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging wall with underclings and exit above on slopers. See also : Pianissimo.
Cartographie (droite assis)7a, slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart.
Wall underneath Tristance and Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad with low crimps, climb the wall and exit with a nipple left hand. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
Projection Privée 7a, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart.
start with a good hold and dyno to the right.
Hansel7a, overhang, sitstart, underclings.
left problem in the bivouac of In Extenso . Sitstart with underclings, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle on the right.
Communiste7a, crimps, slopers, sitstart.
On the boulder just above La Mère aux Démocrates, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad with horizontal crimps.
In Extenso 7a+, slightly overhanging, expo.
on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct. Start 3m to the right of Prestissimo and exit in that problem.
La Mère aux Démocrates7a+, prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
On a boulder at the East of the sector. Sitstart with the obvious pocket left hand, without the pedestal and exit directly. The boulder is on the other side (the south) of Tezcalipoca in relation to chemin du Rocher de la Reine.
La Poulidor du bas 7b, slightly overhanging, roof, crimps.
low start under the roof without the pedestal and exit in La Poulidor . see also : La Poulidor 7a
La Mère aux Socialistes7b, prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
On a boulder at the East of the sector. Sitstart with the obvious pocket left hand, without the pedestal and exit to the left. The boulder is on the other side (the south) of Tezcalipoca in relation to the path.
L’Arête de la Poulidor 7a, arete, expo.
low start of the arete just left of La Poulidor , without the pedestal. see also : La Poulidor (sortie par l’arête) 7b+ (7c)
La Pluie t’Eau Presse7b, prow, sitstart.
Sitstart and climb the compression prow on the hill facing Papillon .
Pépitov 7a, slightly overhanging, slopers.
on a boulder 30m to the West of Le Miroir . Standing start with good crimps and exit on slopers. see also : Pépitasky 7a+
Démineur7b, prow, sitstart.
On the second boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the ridge. Sitstart without crash-pad and climb the prow with compression moves. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
La Poulidor 7a, slightly overhanging, crimps.
on a boulder with a characteristic red mark. Standing start with crimps and exit at the top. NB a low start under the roof is also possible (around 7b). see also : La Poulidor du bas 7b
Pépitasky 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, slopers.
on a boulder 30m to the West of Le Miroir . Sitstart with a good undercling and exit in Pépitov on slopers. see also : Pépitov 7a
Awakened / Toi les Turcs7a+, roof, sitstart.
Left problem in the roof on the second boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Sitstart with an evident crimp and climb the roof the easiest way. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Fortiori 7a, wall, dyno, slopers.
start with a good horizontal hold and the feet on crimps, dyno right hand to a sloper and exit above. see also : A Fortiori 7b
Viracocha 7a, pillar, expo, sitstart.
on a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori . Sitstart in the overhang and climb the pillar with a sloper left hand.
Roule ma Boule / La Cuvette7b, slightly overhanging, slopers.
On the fifth boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Start with good underclings and exit directly with a kneebar. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Tezcalipoca 7b, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
on an isolated boulder at the East of the sector. Sitstart with a crimp right hand and a sloper left hand, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above. Accès : from Le Chemin du Rocher de la Reine, take the last path to the right before La Route du Liteau. The boulder is underneath the aqueduct.
Suspension de Séance (assis)7a+.
Arete left hand to the right of Le Miroir . Sitstart and exit in Suspension de Séance .
Suspension de Séance 7a, arete, slopers.
arete left hand to the right of Le Miroir . NB : a 7a+ sitstart is also possible.
A Fortiori 7b, wall, dyno, sitstart.
on the boulder just above Le Miroir . Sitstart (without crash-pad) on the left at the arete, climb this one and go rapidly to the right to the horizontal hold of Fortiori and exit in that one. see also : Fortiori 7a
Tristance7b, pillar, gaten, sitstart.
On a boulder to the South-East of La Mère aux Démocrates, in the Eastern part of the sector, just below the plateau. Sitstart without crash-pad at the base of the pillar and exit slightly on the left on slopers. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
Grosso Mono 7a+, wall, traverse, monos.
30m underneath the two traverses of the upper part of the sector. Start (by convention) at the arete on the right, traverse with monos and bidoigts and exit on the left via slopers. The direct start is 6c. see also : Grosso Mono direct 6c
Gretel7a, crack, sitstart, crimps.
right problem in the bivouac of In Extenso . Standing start with crimps, climb the crack diagonally to the right and exit by a mantle at the angle.
Cartographie (assis)7a+, slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart.
Wall underneath Tristance and Facette, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart without crash-pad with low crimps, climb the wall and exit with a nipple right hand. From the parking lot of the Bois Rond Auberge, take the Chemin de l’Auberge, climb opposite on the crest of the Rocher de la Reine, follow the path towards the east until it reaches the edge of the north face (marker 421), the boulders are below.
13 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
La Poulidor (sortie par l’arête) 7b+, roof, arete, crimps.
low start in the overhang as for La Poulidor du bas and exit to the left of the wall, in L’Arête de la Poulidor , without using the pedestal. see also : L’Arête de la Poulidor 7a (7a+)
Exponentiel gauche 7c, prow, expo, sitstart.
to the left of Skeleton . Sitstart, climb the prow as for Exponentiel but exit in the left face. see also : Exponentiel 7b+ (7c)
Azkaban7b+, slightly overhanging, slopers, crimps.
on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct. Start as for In Extenso and exit directly above (morpho).
Maléfique7b+, slopers, crimps, underclings.
on the right of Azkaban in the bivouac of In Extenso . Standing start, climb the overhang using underclings and exit by a mantle on slopers.
Toi les Seiches7c, roof, sitstart.
Right problem in the roof on the second boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Sitstart with an evident crimp and climb the roof directly without the holds to the left of the crack. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
En Terrain Miné7b+, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
On the sixth boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left, just underneath the ridge. Sitstart to the right of the arete and exit at the top of the boulder. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Petite Hyène 7c, traverse.
traverse to the right and exit completely right after an arete in a wall/slab. Update : lichened (April 2012).
Euthanasie / Proue Duction Colossale7b+, prow, sitstart, expo.
On the third boulder to the right of the path that leads from the bivouac of the Démineur sector to the left. Sitstart and climb the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
…7b+, mantle, sitstart.
sitstart as for Projection Privée but exit on the left. NB : already brushed and realized problem?
He Poop au Calm7c, prow, sitstart.
On a boulder 60m to the right of the bivouac of the Démineur sector. Sitstart and climb the prow. The Démineur sector is east of the main sector, just above a bivouac, about 100/150m before the bivouac with In Extenso .
Le Miroir 7b+, wall.
left problem of the wall in the low part of the sector.
Skeleton 7c, overhang, sitstart.
on the boulder above Le Miroir . Sitstart to the right of Exponentiel and exit above.
Exponentiel 7b+, prow, expo, sitstart.
prow to the left of Skeleton ; sitstart on the stone at the bottom. see also : Exponentiel gauche 7c (7b+)
2 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
Papillon 8a, arete, sitstart, slopers.
on the slightly overhanging arete to the left of Projection Privée . Sitstart with two crimps in the overhang under the prow and exit in the face on the left using the slopers of the arete.
-slightly overhanging.
On a boulder to the west of La Mère aux Démocrates, in the Eastern part of the sector. To the left of Vagissement.