bLo: Mare aux Joncs

Coup de Patate 6c+, slightly overhanging, crimps, underclings. 50m underneath Coup de Patte , on the North face of a boulder along Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Poiriers. Standing start in the middle of the overhang and exit directly.
Traoù Du 6c, slightly overhanging. 15m to the opposite of Arc Électrique. Standing start in the pit with a monodoigt right hand, catch a good pinch and exit on the right.
Alors? 6c, wall, crimps, sitstart. 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad in the middle of the boulder as for Enfin ! and exit slightly right.
Donc 6c, slightly overhanging, gaten, sitstart. Left problem on the boulder of Enfin !, 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart left without crash-pad, climb the overhang and exit left.
Donc (rallongé) 6c+, gaten, slightly overhanging, sitstart. On the boulder of Enfin !, 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart right without crash-pad, traverse to the left and exit in Donc.
Fest Noz 6c, slightly overhanging, high. to the left of Fest Deiz , in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Start in the middle of the face and exit directly. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Fest Noz assis 7a
Bref... 6c, traverse, gaten, crack. On the boulder of Enfin !, 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart left without crash-pad completely left, traverse to the rightt and exit at the end.
Coucou Bernique 6b+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. in a in the small overhang behind a hill, 20m to the East of Fest Noz . Low sitstart with two flakes and exit with the left arete. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Coucou Bernique droite 6c+ (7a)
Alors? (rallongé) 6c+, gaten, slightly overhanging, sitstart. 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad completely left, traverse to the right and exit in Alors ?.
Coucou Bernique droite 6c+, slab, slightly overhanging, sitstart. in a in the small overhang behind a hill, 20m to the East of Fest Noz . Low sitstart with two flakes as for Coucou Bernique , but exit on the right in the slab. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Coucou Bernique 6b+ (6c)
Essor 6c, slightly overhanging, slab, sitstart. 30m to the South of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad on the stone with a bidoigt left hand and exit straight above (slightly more difficult without the good holds on the left).
… 6b+, slightly overhanging. small overhang 40m to the South-East of Fest Noz . Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is near the hill.
Essor (gauche) 6b+, slightly overhanging, traverse, sitstart. 30m to the South of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad on the stone with a bidoigt left hand as for Essor, traverse to the elft and exit with good holds.
Fish & Chips (gauche) 6c+, arete, prow, sitstart. Central problem on the boulder of Silly Cat, 20m underneath Coup de Patte . Sitstart without crash-pad with the two hands in a good hold, climb the prow and exit in the left face.
Fish & Chips (droite) 6c, arete, prow, sitstart. Central problem on the boulder of Silly Cat, 20m underneath Coup de Patte . Sitstart without crash-pad with the two hands in a good hold, climb the prow and exit in the right face.

Fest Noz assis 7a, slightly overhanging, high, sitstart. to the left of Fest Deiz , in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Sitstart in the middle of the face (or on the right ledge) and exit directly. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Fest Noz 6c (6c+)
Plasma 7b, roof, sitstart. 0m to the West of Le Jeu de Paume . Sitstart on the left of the roof with a hold left hand under the low lip, follow tha one to the right and exit 1m on the right of Arc Électrique.
La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7b, slightly overhanging, dyno, loop. on a boulder 20m to the right of Imiter, C’est Limité . Sitstart at the left angle of Le Jeu de Paume , climb that one, traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb 1m to the right of the exit, come back to the left up to the sitstart of Le Jeu de Paume and exit by that one.
Infernal (gauche) 7b, wall, slopers. 50m to the South-East of Coup de Patte . Standing start in the pit, climb the wall with compression moves and exit left with a good pocket.
Silly Cat 7a+, slab, roof, sitstart. 20m underneath Coup de Patte . Sitstart right in the roof without crash-pad, climb the overhand and mantle up in the slab on the left.
Lecture 7a+, wall. In between Damned and Fish & Chips (gauche), on the boulder of Silly Cat. Standing start without crash-pad with a horizontal hold left hand and an undercling right hand and exit straight above.
Damned 7a, wall, arete, slopers. Left problem on the boulder of Silly Cat, 20m underneath Coup de Patte . Standing start with a sloper left hand, climb the wall/arete and exit at the top.
Enfin! 7a, slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart. 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad in the middle of the boulder and exit at the top.
Damned (assis) 7a+, wall, arete, sitstart. Left problem on the boulder of Silly Cat, 20m underneath Coup de Patte . Sitstart with a jug, climb the wall/arete and exit at the top.
Enfin! (rallongé) 7a+, slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart. 40m to the South-West of Arc Électrique. Sitstart without crash-pad completely right, traverse to the left and exit in Enfin !.
… 7a+, slightly overhanging, prow, sitstart. slightly overhanging prow with a green arrow exposed to the South-East, 50m past album9521.1, near the North summit of the Coquibus. Access (15mn) : from the third parking lot from Courances to Arbonne, follow le chemin du petit Mont Rouget 300m to the South, take le chemin de la Juniperaie to the left for 200m, then le chemin de la gorge aux Poiriers for 250m. The boulder is then 200m from the path, 50m after album9521.1.
Game of Throne 7a, prow, mantle. On the South face of a boulder at the top of the small hill 100m to the Southe-East of Trois Trous de Suspension . Hanging start and exit via a yaniro move (or any other possible method).
Imiter, C’est Limité 7a+, roof, dyno. jump start on the right part of the roof of Trois Trous de Suspension .
Rahan 7a, wall, crimps. Central problem on the right face of the boulder of Game of Throne. Dynamic start with the left foot on a crimp and exit directly.
Le Jeu de Paume 7a, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart. on a boulder 20m to the right of Imiter, C’est Limité . Sitstart in the overhang, climb a big flake and exit by a dyno to the ledge. see also : La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7b
Craô le Sage 7b, wall. Right problem on the right face of the boulder of Game of Throne. Standing start net to the tree with a vertical crimp right hand and an oblique hold left hand and exit left with the good hold of Rahan.
… 7a+, wall, mantle. vertical problem with a mantle, completely right on the right face of Trois Trous de Suspension .
Traoù Mad 7a, wall, roof, sitstart. Left problem on a boulder on the right of the thalweg above Le Chemin de la Passée aux Moutons. Sitstart in the roof without crash-pad with good holds and exit in the wall above. NB: attention à la partie décollée du bloc au niveau de la sortie.NB: take care of the loose flake at the exit.
Fest Deiz 7a, slightly overhanging, high. right problem in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Start to the right of Fest Noz and exit at the same point of that problem. 7b with a sitstart on the horizontal ledge. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Fest Deiz assis 7b
Émoticône 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. On the right of Traoù Mad, on a boulder on the right of the thalweg above Le Chemin de la Passée aux Moutons. Sitstart without crash-pad with the arete right hand.
Fest Deiz assis 7b, slightly overhanging, high, sitstart. right problem in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Sitstart on the horizontal ledge to the right of Fest Noz and exit at the same point of that problem. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill. see also : Fest Deiz 7a (7a+)
Coup de Patate (assis) 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, underclings. 50m underneath Coup de Patte , on the North face of a boulder along Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Poiriers. Sitstart in the middle of the overhang and exit directly.

Infernal (direct) 7b+, wall, slopers. 50m to the South-East of Coup de Patte . Standing start in the pit, climb the wall with compression moves and exit directly without using the left arete nor the good pocket.
Lecture (assis) 7b+, wall, sitstart. Sitstart left without crash-pad with a good pocket left hand, catch the starting holds of Lecture and exit in that one. In between Damned and Fish & Chips (gauche), on the boulder of Silly Cat.
Le Tri-Phasé 7c+, roof, gaten. in the overhang of Imiter, C’est Limité . Start at the bottom and exit in the simplest way, slightly to the left. see also : Miladiou Connection 7b+ Access : follow the road from Courances to Arbonne to the last parking lot, 150m before the entrance for the staff of the toll way; take the path of Petit Mont Rouget up to crossing of the Chemin de la Junipéraie. Walk several meters left to the Carrefour (crossroads) du Petit Mont Rouget (road sign n°44); take a small path in a clear area just in front of the road sign; the roof is 40 meters far, slightly on the right, behind a hill.
Coup de Patte 7c, overhang, dyno, sitstart. 60° overhang with a dyno crux, 250/300m behind Trois Trous de Suspension , near the North summit of the Coquibus. Sitstart, climb the left arete, dyno right hand to a good hold and exit via a mantle. Access (15mn) : from the third parking lot from Courances to Arbonne, follow le chemin du petit Mont Rouget 300m to the South, take le chemin de la Juniperaie to the left for 200m, then le chemin de la gorge aux Poiriers for 250m. The boulder is then 150m from the path, near the summit of the hill, exposed to the South-East.
Miladiou Connection 7b+, roof, traverse, gaten. in the overhang of Imiter, C’est Limité . Start with an undercling above the pedestal, traverse to the left up to the pockets of Imiter, C’est Limité and exit in Le Tri-Phasé 7c+
Ghost Rider 7c, overhang. in an overhang 40m to the East from Coup de Patte (in the parallel direction of La Route du Liteau). Standing start with a left hand crimp and a low undercling right hand and exit right over the "nose". NB : a sitstart is also possible.
Le Prétexte 7c, slightly overhanging, slopers. 1m50 on the right of Imiter, C’est Limité . Standing start on the pedestal (jump start from the ground possible for the tallest), climb the overhang without the right arete and exit above.
Arc Électrique 7b+, overhang, sitstart. 40m to the West of Le Jeu de Paume . Sitstart on the left of the roof with a hold left hand under the low lip and exit in the middle of the overhang.

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