bLo: les Mammouths

0 circuit.

les Mammouths

– 4 October 2012, by Fran Lou

DAVID DESMET a sorti de l’anonymat ce massif en y répertoriant une cinquantaine de voie et en (...)

Le Tour de Gaule 5+, sitstart, traverse. sitstart, traverse to the right and exit at the very end.
La Jaquette 5-. 1m to the right of Jackass, on the boulder L of the topo.
Tcho d’Hollande 5-, slab, slopers. right problem on the boulder along the path, at the West of the sector. Start left hand on the ledge and exit on slopers.
Boum 5 , dyno. dyno on the left of the boulder with a dead tree, along the GR at the South of the sector.
Jeu de Paume 5-, slab, slopers. start with a good hold right hand and exit directly.
Chute d’O (direct) 5+, wall, sitstart. Sitstart to the left of the cave as for Chute d’O, go straight up and exit slightly on the left.
Après C’est le Vide 5-, wall. to the left of Tcho d’Hollande, along the path, at the West of the sector.
Walidia 5-, roof, sitstart. sitstart in the roof and exit by a mantle.
La Savoyarde 5-, mantle, sitstart. to the right of Air Afrique , along the path.
Geai de l’Éponge 5+, belly. Just right of the tree, on the left face of the boulder of Geai l’Arête, underneath Sélacien, next to Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loups. Exit directly by the belly.
Tanka 5 , arete, slopers. on the right angle of the boulder.
Tortue Géniale 5 , mantle, traverse. traverse to the right and exit in Walidia.
Le Dauphin d’Alger 5-, dyno, mantle. dyno to the left of the pockets and exit by a mantle.
Geai l’Inverse 5 , belly, underclings. Left problem on the boulder of Geai l’Arête. Start with underclings and exit in the belly. Underneath Sélacien, next to Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loups. Exit directly by the belly.
Raclette 5 , wall. to the right of Tartiflette.
Marcia Baila 5 , wall. start on the small stone and climb the right side of the face.
À Pied et en Tongues 5+, slightly overhanging, gaten. belly to the left of Le Dauphin d’Alger.
Geai Zippé 5 , traverse. On the boulder of Geai l’Arête. Start in Geai la Brosse, traverse to the left with big vertical cracks and exit just before Geai l’Inverse. Underneath Sélacien, next to Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loups. Exit directly by the belly.
Vigie Lance 5-, wall. direct problem with a good hold right hand.
Régalade 5 , arete, mantle. climb the arete to the left and exit at the top of it.
La Grande Traversée 5 , sitstart, traverse. start to the left of À Pied et en Tongues , low traverse to the right and exit in the wall completely to the right of the boulder.
Novel 5 , wall. On the boulder with Zébulon .
Zizanie 5 , mantle, traverse. sitstart, traverse to the left and exit by a mantle.
… 5 . to the left of the GR 13.
Surprise 5+, wall, traverse. traverse to the right and exit at the arrow, 1m before Akuna Matata.
Mala Vida 5+, wall. with the big pocket.
Novel (assis) 5+, wall, sitstart. On the boulder with Zébulon . Sitstart with a pocket right hand and a sloper left hand and exit in Novel.
L’Étalon Suisse 5+, slightly overhanging, mantle, traverse. sistart with good holds, traverse to the right and exit above.
Le Monde d’Anaïs 5-, wall, overhang, sitstart. deep sitstart to the right of La Der, on the second boulder of the sector.
Dernière Razzade 5 , mantle, traverse. traverse to the left and exit by a mantle, on a boulder in the North of the sector.
Chute d’O 5+, wall, sitstart. sitstart to the left of the cave, go straight up, traverse to the right and exit in the wall with another boulder in one’s back.
La Garenne 5-, slightly overhanging, sitstart. sitstart in the pit and exit directly.
Petit Pied 5-, wall. to the right of Le Monde d’Anaïs.
… 5+, slab. variant to the left of Tartare, along the path. see also: Tartare 5
L’Odyssée 5-, traverse. low traverse to the left and exit by La Renfougnette.
Petit Ernesto 5 , arete. start completely left and climb the arete to the right.
Tonton Mouton 5-, wall. start to the left of the horizontal crack.
Air Berlin 5+, overhang, dyno, sitstart. on the boulder E, just right of La Savoyarde. Sitstart at the white arrow, dyno (or double-dyno) to the big hold, and exit on the right side of the overhang.
Tartare 5 , slab. along the path, on the boulder of Goby . see also: … 5+
L’Autoroute du Soleil 5-, wall. in the face to the right of the angle.
La Der 5 , wall, slightly overhanging, sitstart. sitstart to the left of Le Monde d’Anaïs.
R.I.P. 5+, arete, high. high arete 2m to the left of the beginning of Le Tour de Gaule, on the boulder C. Start at the arete, take a loop on the left side and finish with a big jug directly on the arete.
Skatosaure 5-, wall. start left hand with the big flake to the left of Goby .
Coup de Pouce 5-, wall, crack. crack on a boulder with a dead tree, along the GR at the South of the sector.

La Peur, ça fait Voler 6b, crack, expo. to the opposite of the GR.
Tartiflette 6a, wall. do not exit too much to the left.
Qui par Ici? 6b. In between Flippo and Toxico , on the North-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Sitstart and climb the evident crack to the right.
One More Toy 6b, wall, mantle. start with a pinch and a crimp left hand, dyno to a sloper and exit by a mantle.
La Galère 6a, traverse. traverse to the left and exit before the end of the face.
Sélacien (droite) 6b, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. On a shark-shaped boulder, 200m-300m from the parking lot of Poligny. Sitstart right, climb the arete to the left and mantle up to the right of the summit. NB: 6c without the pocket at the top. From the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loup to the West and turn right at a small path at a bench; the boulder is 50m above.
Déviance 6b, wall, sitstart, traverse. sitstart in Single Push , traverse to the right and exit in One More Toy .
Tri Ceps de Moins 6a+, wall. left problem on a boulder with a dead tree, along the GR at the South of the sector.
Single Push 6a, wall, sitstart. sitstart, climb the wall to the left of the pillar and exit in the dihedral.
La Souris Verte 6a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. to the opposite of the boulder of Le Domaine des Dieux , in the South part of the sector.
L’Ascenseur 6a, mantle, sitstart, slopers. sitstart under the step and exit slightly left on slopers.
Le Combat des Chefs 6a, mantle, traverse. start completely left, traverse to the right and exit in Régalade.
Tom Pouce 6a, wall. start behind the tree and exit slightly right of the ledge.
Flippo 6a, wall, monos. central problem on the North-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Start with good holds and continue with a mono left hand. Access : park the car at the first parking lot on the right when coming from Nemours (3 places) and walk towards the South-West for 200m.
… 6b, dyno. n°12 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05).
Air Afrique 6b, dyno, sitstart. sitstart, take the last crimp left hand and make a big dyno.
Pitchounette 6b, dyno, crimps. left problem on the North-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Start with two crimps and dyno to another one. Access : park the car at the first parking lot on the right when coming from Nemours (3 places) and walk towards the South-West for 200m.
Les Colonnettes 6b, wall. n°15 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13. see also : Les Colonnettes bas 7a+, Les Colonnettes direct 7b
Ma Bauge 6a, slightly overhanging, sitstart, traverse. sitstart in the corridor, traverse to the left and exit after the angle.
Phénix 6a+, wall, sitstart. on the boulder V. Sitstart 2m to the right of Ikarus at the big jug with sidepulls and exit on slopers and tiny ledges. see also : La Traversée des Petits Hommes 6b+
… 6b, wall. n°16 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13, to the left of Les Colonnettes .
Goby 6b, wall, bidoigt. take the bidoigt and exit directly.
La Complainte du Lamantin 6a, wall, expo. left problem on the boulder of Opération Coup de Poing (big characteristic wall with horizontal cracks, 20m to the opposite and underneath Ubik ). Start at the fracture of the boulder and exit directly.
… 6b. n°17 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13.
Passe pas Partout 6b, mantle, sitstart, traverse. at the crossing of the GR with another path.
Mystère et Boule de Gomme 6b, wall. On a boulder to the East of Ubik . Start as … and exit left as Boule de Gomme . See also ….
… 6a+. n°5 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the right of the GR 13, on the boulder of Ubik .
La Main Noire 6b, traverse, slopers. traverse to the left and exit before the end of the face.
L’Œil du Cétacé 6b. To the right of the GR, towards the museum, 100m to the North-East of La Taupe. Standing start at the right arete, climb the roof without using the pedestal and exit directly with a bidoigt.

Toxico 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart, underclings. right problem on the North-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Sitstart under the boulder with underclings and exit at the top on the right without using the small boulder on the left. Access : park the car at the first parking lot on the right when coming from Nemours (3 places) and walk towards the South-West for 200m.
La Belle Vie 6c, wall, dyno. on the South-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Start with a good hold left hand and a small bidoigt and dyno to a crimp on the right. Access : park the car at the first parking lot on the right when coming from Nemours (3 places) and walk towards the South-West for 200m.
La Proue 6b+, prow, sitstart. on the boulder Y. Sitstart to the opposite of Super Vanoise under a small overhang at a big pocket and exit via the prow.
La Traversée des Petits Hommes 6b+, wall, traverse. on the boulder V. Start in Cyclope , traverse to the right on the ledge and exit in Phénix . see also : Phénix 6a+
Opération Coup de Pied 6c, arete, crack, expo. right arete on the boulder of Opération Coup de Poing (big characteristic wall with horizontal cracks, 20m to the opposite and underneath Ubik ). Start with underclings, take a diagonal crack and exit directly or on the right. It is also possible to start on the wall to the left.
Vostok 1 7a, dyno. In between Youri Gagarine and ….
… 6c. n°18 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13.
La Belle Vie (assis) 7a, wall, dyno, sitstart. On the South-Eastern face of an isolated boulder 200m at the bottom of the sector of Mammouths Nord. Sitstart at a small cave, climb the wall to the left and exit in La Belle Vie . See also La Belle Vie .
… 6c. n°3 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the right of the GR 13, on the boulder of Ubik .
Geai l’Arête 6c+, arete, slopers. Arete left hand on an isolated boulder underneath Sélacien, next to Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loups.
L’Ânesse 6c, arete, slopers. start with the two hands on slopers and go diagonally to the jugs.
Le Domaine des Dieux 6c, traverse. on a boulder with a dead tree, along the GR at the South of the sector. Start completely left, low traverse to the right, come back with top holds on the ledge and exit in Tri Ceps de Moins .
Super Vanoise 6b+, roof, mantle, sitstart. low sitstart with the two hands in the jug and exit by a mantle.

… 7a+, slightly overhanging. to the right of the GR 13, on the boulder of Ubik , between two problems of 6a/b and 6c grades.
Parole de Castor 7a+, slab, crimps, underclings. on the right face of the boulder of Opération Coup de Poing (big characteristic wall with horizontal cracks, 20m to the opposite and underneath Ubik ). Start in a corridor, climb the vertical face, take the vertical crack of the slab and exit on the right or directly.
Osiris 2.0 7a+, overhang, arete. start in Osiris , catch the left arete, using a flat pocket and exit slightly left.
Nightfury 7a, overhang, sitstart. on the North face of a boulder along the GR, between the one with a … and the one with a …. Sitstart with an oblique crack left hand and a crimp right hand and climb the overhang straight up.
… 7a+, wall, expo. on a boulder to the East of Ubik , along the GR.
… 7b, overhang, sitstart. In the overhang to the left of Opération Coup de Poing. Sitstart, exit left with a mantle.
Osiris 7b, overhang. n°1 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05). Osiris 2.0 Grimpeabloc
… 7a, dyno. Conventional dyno in between Air Afrique and La Savoyarde, directly from the pedestal to the highest jugs.
Boule de Gomme 7a+, dyno, mantle, crimps. Sector "Ubik", bloc D on the topo.
L’Âne 7a. Sitstart to the right of L’Ânesse .
… 7b, sitstart. n°13 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13.
Jackass 7a+, slightly overhanging, mantle, slopers. 5m to the right of L’Âne. Standing start with a crimp right hand and a sloper left hand, climb straight up and mantle on slopers.
Les Colonnettes bas 7a+, wall, sitstart. n°15 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13. Low start (sitstart for very tall people) of Les Colonnettes ; exit to the left. see also : Les Colonnettes 6b, Les Colonnettes direct 7b
Sélacien 7a, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. On a shark-shaped boulder, 200m-300m from the parking lot of Poligny. Sitstart right, climb the arete to the left and exit at the top with a pocket right hand by a mantle (expo). From the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Crotte aux Loup to the West and turn right at a small path at a bench; the boulder is 50m above.
Les Colonnettes direct 7b, wall, expo, sitstart. n°15 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05), to the left of the GR 13. Direct exit of Les Colonnettes bas . see also : Les Colonnettes 6b, Les Colonnettes bas 7a+
Optimisme 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. 50m to the east of Osiris at the edge of the plateau.

Beaux blocs propres pour tous niveaux. qcq fléches noires. On atteint rapidement, ou doucement, ce massif depuis le parking principal, de la vallée casse-pot, en suivant approximativement le GR. On peut ce faisant grimper au passage sur qcq blocs isolés (le 1er se trouve à 50 m du parking, puis on passe par le massif improprement dénommé les Mammouths, où se trouve le célèbre Ubik, où ne sont praticables que les voies difficiles, le reste étant sous la mousse. On passe par la "roche volante" et qcq autres blocs isolés intéressants avant d’arriver aux fantastiques Mammouths. Le Mont Olivet n’est plus très loin.

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