0 circuit.
2 blue 4-,4,4+
- Le Bâtonnier 4-, slightly overhanging, high. Start near the blue arrow of 81 and exit directly.
- Le Bâtonnier (assis) 4 , slightly overhanging, high, sitstart. Sitstart underneath the blue arrow of 81 and exit directly.
13 red 5-,5,5+
- La Dalle de la Paix 5+, slab. Right problem in the eastface of the second boulder to the east of the boulder with Big Ben and JCVD.
- Le Couloir en Désordre 5-, wall. Westface of the boulder between
- La Fissure Charlie 5+, crack. 5m to the right of Visage de Marbre . see also : Retraite Permise 6b+
- Sous le Sable 5-, wall. Westface of the boulder to the right of Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start with a sandy sidepull.
- - 5 , wall, high. High wall on the boulder to the right of Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start to the right near the old red dot.
- Le Voile Noir (direct) 5+, slightly overhanging, arete, high. Start near the blue arrow of 81ter, Le Voile Noir and exit with the arete right hand.
- Le Petit Mamelon 5-, wall. Wall on the boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start to the right with a pocket and a high hold right hand.
- - 5-, wall, gaten. Wall on the boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Old red n°26, wall with a series of pockets right hand.
- Le Mono Utile 5 , slab. Slab on a boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start with the one finger pocket left hand.
- Le Pigeonnier 5 , slightly overhanging. Start with good holds in the westface of the boulder to the east of the boulder with Big Ben and JCVD, morpho.
- La Colombe de la Paix (direct) 5+, slightly overhanging, prow. Vague prow left of Le Pigeonnier.
- La Dalle du Pigeonnier 5-, slab. In the eastface of the boulder to the east of the boulder with Big Ben and JCVD.
- La Dalle de la Colombe 5 , wall, slab. Left problem in the eastface of the second boulder to the east of the boulder with Big Ben and JCVD.
14 black 6a,6a+,6b
- La Colombe de la Paix 6a+, slightly overhanging, prow. Vague prow left of Le Pigeonnier. Start left.
- La Dalle en Désordre 6a, slab. Northface of the boulder between
- Le Château de Sable 6b, wall. underneath and to the right of Mirobol , to the left of orange n°27.
- Le Gros Mamelon (en traversée) 6b, traverse, wall. On the boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Standing start on the left of tree, traverse to the right and exit in Le Gros Mamelon.
- Dalotte 6b, wall. Left problem on a wall/slab, 40m above and to the left of Fat Teddy’s Drop .
- Neuf Joints 6b, belly, slab. About 35m from the boulder with La Moldave in a northwesterly direction and along the path that leads throught the sector.
- Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord (gauche) 6a, slightly overhanging, high, toprope. 100m underneath Tour de Garde . Start on the pedestal with an undercling left hand.
- Le Voile Noir (direct assis) 6a, slightly overhanging, high, sitstart. Start below the blue arrow of 81ter, Le Voile Noir and exit with the arete right hand.
- Le Sableux 6a+, wall, high. High wall on the boulder to the right of Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start to the left near the crack and exit to the left (loose rock).
- Le Gros Mamelon 6a+, wall. Wall on the boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Old red n°27, start to the right with a high hold left hand.
- Le Faux Écart 6a, wall, slopers. Wall on the boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Just to the left of old red n°26.
- Le Mono Utile (gauche) 6a, slab. Slab on a boulder opposite Fat Teddy’s Drop . Start with the one finger pocket right hand.
- La Sortie Inattendue 6b, slab, wall. On a boulder underneath Matador . Start with a sidepull right hand to the right of the old red n°18.
- Le Réta de Sable 6a, wall, mantle. On a boulder underneath Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord. Start with a sidepull right hand to the left of the old red n°40.
13 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
- Le Blub (droite) 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Right problem on a boulder between Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord and La Moldave.
- Captain Cutloose (direct) 6c, wall, crimps, sitstart. To the left of Le Blub, on a boulder between Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord and La Moldave. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit directly with a sidepull to the left.
- Coquine Blues 6c+, slightly overhanging. two boulders to the left of Tour de Garde . Update (June 2009) : the foot hold at the start has broken off, but the problem seems to be still realzable.
- Le Voile Blanc 6b+, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart to the right of Le Voile Noir (direct assis), without the crack, climb to the right on pockets and exit more or less on the right with a mantle. NB: a sitstart more left is also possible (slightly more difficult).
- Retraite Permise 6b+, crack, traverse. on the boulder of Visage de Marbre . Start completely left in the roof, pass under the prow of Un Œil dans le Dos , traverse to the right and exit in La Fissure Charlie . see also : La Fissure Charlie 5+
- Zitterfritte 6c, prow, sitstart. 50m to the West and slightly underneath La Rimaye . Sitstart in the pit and climb the prow directly.
- La Plancha 6c+, wall. 100m after Tour de Garde . Start in the pit on the ledge of the roof as for Mirobol but go immediately to the right and exit above.
- Valachie 6c+, wall. 1m on the right of Visage de Marbre . Start with crimps, climb the wall and exit slightly left.
- Le BiMono 6c+, wall, crack, bidoigt. just right of Valachie, on the boulder of Visage de Marbre . Climb the wall with the crack of an old red problem right hand and exit with a bidoigt in the face.
- La Directe de la Moldave 6b+, wall, high, sitstart. on a big boulder underneath and to the left of Mirobol , near the path. Sitstart as for La Moldave and exit in the axis with a good hold on the right.
- Emphase 6b+, slightly overhanging. To the left of Dracool.
- Le Mono Inutile 6c, wall, mantle. On a boulder underneath Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord. Start with a small sidepull or a one finger pocket right hand to the left of the old red n°18.
- La Colombe de la Paix (assis) 6c, slightly overhanging, prow, sitstart. Vague prow left of Le Pigeonnier. Sitstart left.
17 white 7a,7a+,7b
- Un Œil dans le Dos 7a, slightly overhanging, prow, sitstart. on the boulder just right of Tour de Garde . Sitstart in the overhang as for Christiansen , traverse to the left and exit by the prow above the corridor.
- La Moldave 7a+, wall, sitstart, traverse. on a big boulder underneath and to the left of Mirobol , near the path. Sitstart, traverse on the left using crimps and slopers and exit at the top.
- Christiansen 7a+, wall, crack, sitstart. to the left of Visage de Marbre , on the boulder just right of Tour de Garde . Sitstart in the overhang, take a vertical crack left hand and exit just above.
- Dracool 7b, prow, dyno, gaten. on the right face of the boulder of La Moldave, underneath and to the left of Mirobol , near the path. Standing start with pockets and slopers, make a dyno and exit above.
- Tour de Garde 7a, slab, wall, monos. 8 meters to the left of red n°61. see also : Pop-Corn 7b
- Nutty Nat 7b, prow, slopers, sitstart. 15m in front of Fat Teddy’s Drop , on the boulder to the left of old red n°26. Sitstart with a jug right hand and a crimp left hand, place a high right heel and exit via the slopey arete. NB: first known realization by Jan de Smit. The starting crimp broke (february 2021). The problem is possible with both hand on the jug and the 7a is now 7b. The variant on the arete is easier.
- Visage de Marbre 7b, wall, crimps. to the right of Christiansen above a pit to the left of red n°61.
- Captain Cutloose 7a, wall, crimps, sitstart. To the left of Le Blub, on a boulder between Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord and La Moldave. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit right with mushroom-shaped holds.
- Pop-Corn 7b, slab, high. 8 meters to the left of red n°61. Same start as Tour de Garde , but exit to the left of the slab see also : Tour de Garde 7a
- Le Blub 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Central problem on a boulder between Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord and La Moldave.
- Matador 7a+, arete. arete to the right of Coquine Blues , 15m to the left of Tour de Garde .
- Le Blub (gauche) 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sitstart right as for Le Blub, climb the overhang to the left and exit with the jug of Captain Cutloose.
- Blague ou Net 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, traverse. 20m underneath Tour de Garde . Same sitstart as for album11634.1, but traverse to the left and exit in an od red number.
- La Belle Annette 7b, prow, sitstart. Evident arete right hand on the north face of the boulder with Ill Niño . sitstart with a good sidepull and exit directly with a good sloper on the left.
- L’Écolo 7a, wall, sitstart, underclings. on the boulder to the left of Évasion and 79, La J.M.B. (blue n°78, with an engraving in honor of J.M. Blois).
- La Rimaye 7a, slightly overhanging. to the right of Évasion , on the boulder of 79, La J.M.B. (blue n°78), with an engraving in honor of J.M. Blois. Exit on the right. see also : La Corniche 7a+
- La Corniche 7a+, slightly overhanging, dyno. to the right of Évasion , on the boulder of 79, La J.M.B. (blue n°78), with an engraving in honor of J.M. Blois. Start as for La Rimaye , but exit by a dyno to the left towards a jug. see also : La Rimaye 7a
15 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
- JCVD 7b+, wall, slopers, crimps. Just left of Big Ben .
- Nature Addict 8a, wall, crimps. On the right of Fat Teddy’s Drop , 20m underneath Tour de Garde .
- Dolmen du Possible 7c, traverse. on the left, 900m into Le Chemin de Bois d’Hyvers.
- Sans Papier 7c. Sitstart with sidepulls on the backside of the boulder with Fat Teddy’s Drop .
- Mirobol 7c, wall, crimps. 100m after Tour de Garde ; start on the ledge of the roof.
- Hyspoline 7c+. On the left face of the boulder of Tour de Garde . Start from the bottom of the ’cave’ and exit direct on the slab.
- Big Ben 7b+, wall. 30m to the left of Tour de Garde .
- Petit Cœur de Beurre 7c, belly, slopers, mantle. On a bowl exposed to the East, 20m to the East and underneath Matador . Start with a good hold right hand on the round arete and exit in the axis.
- Insensé 7c+, arete. to the right of Big Ben , 30m to the left of Tour de Garde .
- Évasion (rallongé) 7c+. Start in La Rimaye , travrse to the left and exit in Évasion .
- Fat Teddy’s Drop 7c, slightly overhanging. 20m underneath Tour de Garde .
- Le Téton Réfractaire 7b+, slightly overhanging. to the left of Ill Niño , on a boulder to the right of Christiansen and Visage de Marbre . Start on the ground with an undercling, take a small pinch right hand and a vertical right hand and exit via a mantle.
- Évasion 7b+, overhang, crack. to the left of Évasion and 79, La J.M.B. (blue n°78), on the boulder with an engraving in honor of J.M. Blois.
- Timing 7b+, pillar, expo, slopers. on the pillar above a pedestal 20m to the left of Mirobol . Sitstart on the pedestal, climb the pillar on slopers and exit at the top.
- C’est Pas le Verdon 7c+, wall, slopers, crimps. On the left face of the boulder of Tour de Garde .
5 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
- Ill Niño 8a, arete, slopers. on a boulder to the right of Christiansen and Visage de Marbre ; exit to the left on slopers.
- Tostaky (debout) 8a, pillar, high. Jump start from the ground without crash-pad climb the pillar 1m on the right of Tour de Garde using compression and a left heel hook and exit at the top of Tour de Garde .
- Tostaky 8b, pillar, high, sitstart. Sitstart 1m right of Tour de Garde , traverse slightly to the right and exit by the pillar of the short version Tostaky (debout).
- Le Toit de l’Éléphant Nord 8a, roof, sitstart. 100m underneath Tour de Garde . Crouching start with two crimps and climb the overhang above.
- Nature Addict (assis) 8b. Sitstart of Nature Addict . Same sitstart as for Fat Teddy’s Drop , but exit to the right. Update (September 2018): Several holds have broken. The problem has probably became more difficult.
1 Teal 8b+,8c,8c+
- - prow. Prow between Matador and Hyspoline.
