…5 , roof, arete, sitstart.
in the overhang to the right of album9211.1. Sitstart with big pockets to the right of the arete and finish with the pocket on the left of that one.
2 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
Le Porte-Nanteau 6c+, roof, sitstart, bidoigt.
in the overhang to the right of album9211.1. Lying start with the two hands on a ledge on the left, take a bidoigt right hand in the overhang, climb that one up to the nose and exit above.
La Guéguerre des Étoiles raccourci 6b+, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
on the boulder of Le Surplomb de Villetard . Sitstart 1m to the right of the left arete, climb the overhang and exit as for La Guéguerre des Étoiles . see also : Le Surplomb de Villetard (sortie gauche) 7a, Le Surplomb de Villetard 7a (7a+), La Guéguerre des Étoiles 7b (7b+)
4 white 7a,7a+,7b
Le Surplomb de Villetard 7a, overhang, sitstart, gaten.
on one of the first boulders of the sector. Sitstart on big pockets, climb the overhang and finish by a mantle to the right of the arete with a marbled crimp. Access : from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem is on the first boulder of the chaos. see also : La Guéguerre des Étoiles raccourci 6b (6c), Le Surplomb de Villetard (sortie gauche) 7a, La Guéguerre des Étoiles 7b (7b+)
La Traversée de Nanteau 7b, traverse.
just before Le Toit de Nanteau . Access : coming from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem is on the right side of the chaos on the hill, 100m past Le Surplomb de Villetard .
Le Surplomb de Villetard (sortie gauche) 7a, overhang, sitstart, gaten.
on the boulder of Le Surplomb de Villetard . Sitstart on big pockets, climb the overhang, take the arete right hand, traverse to the left on the ledge of the roof and exit at a big jug. Access : from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem is on the first boulder of the chaos. see also : La Guéguerre des Étoiles raccourci 6b (6c), Le Surplomb de Villetard 7a (7a+), La Guéguerre des Étoiles 7b (7b+)
La Guéguerre des Étoiles 7b, overhang, sitstart, traverse.
on the boulder of Le Surplomb de Villetard . itstart on big pockets, climb the overhang, take the arete right hand, traverse to the left on the ledge up to the round arete and exit on its left. see also : La Guéguerre des Étoiles raccourci 6b (6c), Le Surplomb de Villetard (sortie gauche) 7a, Le Surplomb de Villetard 7a (7a+)
2 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
Le Toit de Nanteau 7c+, roof, sitstart, monos.
coming from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem (a small 45° roof) is at the far right side of the chaos on the hill, 100m past Le Surplomb de Villetard . see also : Le Toit de Nanteau direct 7b+, Le Toit de Nanteau rallongé 8a
Le Toit de Nanteau direct 7b+, roof, arete, sitstart.
sitstart as for Le Toit de Nanteau rallongé , climb the roof directly with the arete and exit at the same point. NB : first known realization by Bart van Raaij. see also : album9211.1 7c+, Le Toit de Nanteau rallongé 8a
1 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
Le Toit de Nanteau rallongé 8a, roof, sitstart.
very low sitstart of album9211.1 with left hand on an arete and right hand on an undercling in a round hole. Coming from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem (45° roof) is at the far right side of the chaos on the hill, 100m past Le Surplomb de Villetard . see also : Le Toit de Nanteau direct 7b+, album9211.1 7c+