Buthiers - Massif de la Coccinelle
– 9 October 2012, by bLo,
Fran Lou
0 circuit.
3 Orange 3-,3,3+
5 blue 4-,4,4+
- … 4 , slab, high. initiation problem equipped with spits on the backside of the boulder of La Mulas .
- … 4+, wall. initiation problem equipped with spits on the boulder above La Mulas .
- … 4+, slightly overhanging, dihedral. start in the overhang just right of Marmelade and exit by the dihedral.
- … 4+, slab, high, traverse. ascending traverse equipped with spits just under the plateau, above the boulder of La Coccinelle .
- Samba 4+, slab. to the right of Samba , on the North-West face of the small boulder behind the one with La Ligne Blanche , to the left and slightly above the tennis courts.
7 red 5-,5,5+
- Coup de Brosse 5+, wall. to the right of 118-218 , on a boulder 60m to the left of La Mygale .
- … 5 , wall. right problem on the boulder to the left of Halloween ,at the start of the traverse of Avant-Première .
- Passage à Niveau 5+, slab. left problem on the North face of a boulder above La Ligne Blanche and the tennis courts.
- Zou 5+, wall, gaten. just right of the angle at the start of the traverse of La Mygale , with the pocket on the right. see also : Zou direct 6b (6c)
- … 5 , wall. left problem on a wall just under the plateau, above a …, up the slope from the boulder of Dernier Bal .
- … 5 , wall. right problem on a wall just under the plateau, above a …, up the slope from the boulder of Dernier Bal .
- Que Dalle 5+, slab. direct slab (without the left crack) to the left of Samba , on the North-West face of the small boulder behind the one with La Ligne Blanche , to the left and slightly above the tennis courts.
17 black 6a,6a+,6b
- 118-218 6b+, wall. Wall with vertical craks exposed to the East 80m to the left of La Mygale , on the boulder of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance ; exit right. See also 118-218 .
- … 6a+, arete, expo. on a small bolder above 118-218 .
- … 6b, pillar. pillar just under the plateau, up the slope above the boulder of La Coccinelle .
- … 6a, wall, crack. to the left of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance , on the boulder of 118-218 .
- … 6b, wall, overhang, high. on the North face of a boulder just under the plateau, to the East of a …, up the slope from the boulder of Dernier Bal . Start in the overhang and exit in a high wall. Easier by starting on the left.
- … 6b, sitstart. on the boulder of Dernier Bal , to the right of Flagrand Désir .
- Le Pilier de la Coccinelle 6b, pillar. pillar to the left of Apte 1 , on the boulder of La Coccinelle .
- … 6a, pillar, sitstart. 1m50 to the right of Grizzli , underneath Sables Émouvants , near the road. Sitstart, climb the pillar and exit at the top of the boulder.
- Nemesis 6b, pillar. 80m to the left of La Mygale , on the boulder to the right of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance . Update (April 2013) : this boulder has been downgraded to 6b, due to stupidly chipped holds.disappeared variants (due to broken holds, etc) : Nemesis 7a
- Viande Blanche 6a, wall, arete. arete left hand on a boulder 20m above La Coccinelle . see also : 31, Viande Rouge 6b
- Le Syndrome du Titanic 6a, wall, high. 5m above the boulder of 31, Viande Rouge .
- Buthié Caché 6b, wall. 15m to the right of Résilience . Jump start without crash-pad from a small marbled crimp right hand to an undercling left hand and exit directly.
- Grizzli 6b, wall, high, sitstart. left problem on the boulder underneath Sables Émouvants . Sitstart with good holds, traverse slightly to the right and exit with the boss. see also : Teddy Bear 7a
- Le Petit Ours 6a. 1m50 to the right of Teddy Bear , underneath Sables Émouvants , near the road. Standing start, climb the pillar and exit at the top of the boulder with slopers.
- … 6b, roof, mantle, sitstart. central problem on the boulder to the left of Halloween , with a lying start in the small roof in the middle of the traverse of Avant-Première .
- Le Dragon 6a+, arete. arete right hand just left of Dark Room .
- … 6a+, pillar. underneath the plateau, to the left of the path that goes up the slope from La Coccinelle .
20 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
- 118-218 6c+, wall, crack. wall with vertical craks exposed to the East 80m to the left of La Mygale , on the boulder of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance ; direct exit is 7a (morpho) and right exit is 6b/c.
- Poltron 6b+, wall, sitstart, high. 10m above La Coccinelle . Sitstart, climb the wall and exit on the left with a crack.
- Pierre Frivole 6c, wall. wall exposed to the West, completely to the left of the sector, above Halloween .
- Zou direct 6b+, wall. direct wall just right of the angle at the start of the traverse of La Mygale . see also : Zou 5+ (6a)
- … 6b+, slightly overhanging, crack. on a boulder completely to the East of the sector, above the tennis courts. Left problem by exiting with the crack. see also : … 6b (6c)
- … 6c, traverse. on the boulder of Dernier Bal , to the right of Flagrand Désir .
- … 6b+, slightly overhanging, overhang. on a boulder completely to the East of the sector, above the tennis courts. Right problem by exiting in the overhang. see also : … 6b (6c)
- La Mulas 6c, arete, sitstart. on the boulder of Dernier Bal , 20m to the left of La Coccinelle . Sitstart to the right and exit via the left arete see also : La Traversée du Mulas 7a+
- … 6c+, belly, roof, sitstart. on the North face of a boulder just under the plateau, up the slope above Dernier Bal . Lying start in the roof and exit by a belly.
- Apte 2 6c+, slab, wall. right problem on the right of the exit of La Coccinelle ; slightly morpho.
- Charme et Frêne 6c, overhang. just under the plateau, to the right of a …, up the slope above the boulder of La Mygale .
- Apte 1 6b+, slab, wall. left problem on the right of the exit of La Coccinelle
- Flagrand Désir direct 6c+, wall, expo. direct version of Flagrand Désir , to the left pf
- L’Amortissement 6c, dyno. dyno to the left of Nemesis .
- Ta Vie ne Tient qu’à un Fil 6c, slab, crack, expo. to the left of Dark Room , on the boulder behind Le Frelon Vert , near the tennis courts. Standing start with a good crack, take another thin one on the left and exit directly.
- Le Pouf 6c, wall, sitstart. sitstart of the exit variant of La Coccinelle , 1m to the left of the classical exit.
- Petit Chat 6c+, slab, wall, crimps. On the right of Monitrice, on the right face of the boulder of L’Homme Élastique . Start in the pit at the tree with a crimp and exit straight up by the slab.
- Los Manos 6c, wall, monos. just left of Les Monos , behind the boulder of La Coccinelle . see also : Les Monos 7a, Les Monos assis 7b
- Devil’s Ridge (droite) 6b+, arete. Without the good hold left.
- Le Jardinet 6c+, wall, crack, sitstart. on the boulder to the left of Halloween , 15m above the road. Sitstart on the left of the boulder, climb the crack, make a mantle and exit by a traverse to the right along a second crack. see also : Avant-Première 7a
25 white 7a,7a+,7b
- Les Larmes du Bouleau 7a+, slab, expo, crimps. high slab 5m to the right of Dans les Méandres du Sable , on the boulder of La Mygale . Start between two small boulders, climb the slab, using a big jug left hand and vertical holds right hand and exit on slopers.
- Z10 7b, wall. on the East face of the boulder with the graffiti "Z10", completely to the West of the sector, to the left of the thalweg when going up the slope. Start in a pit, take a vertical hold right hand, put left foot on a step, take a crimp left hand and exit on slopers.
- Vampire Hunter 7a, wall, crimps, underclings. just under the plateau, in the corridor behind Charme et Frêne , up the slope above La Mygale . Standing start with two big sidepulls and climb the wall straight up on small crimps.
- … 7a+, traverse. to the left of the boulder of La Mygale . Start completely left, traverse all the face and exit by the angle.
- Monitrice 7a+, slightly overhanging, slopers. On the left of Petit Chat, on the right face of the boulder of L’Homme Élastique . Start in the pit with a jug and a crimp, climb the ledge of slopers and exit at the highest point (without using the pedestal on the left by convention).
- Le Frelon Vert 7a+, overhang, high, traverse. just to the left of the tenniscourts, on a huge boulder above and to the right of Les Monos . After an evident start, traverse to the right with a horizontal crack, pass the arete with high holds, go down, traverse the slab and exit via the arete (30 moves).
- Résilience 7a+, overhang, slopers, underclings. just above the road at a house, 20m to the left of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance and Nemesis .
- Dans les Méandres du Sable (direct) 7a+. Slab on the exit face of the boulder of La Mygale . Start on marbled crimps and exit without the big pocket.
- Les Monos 7a, slightly overhanging, monos, gaten. behind La Coccinelle ; two possible exits. Sitstart is 7b. see also : Los Manos 6c, Les Monos assis 7b
- Avant-Première 7a, traverse, slopers, underclings. on the boulder to the left of Halloween , 15m above the road. Start on the right, traverse in the oblique ledge, climb the vertical crack as for Le Jardinet , make a mantle and exit by a traverse to the right along a second crack. see also : Le Jardinet 6c+
- Libellule 7a+, overhang, dyno, high. Just left of the start of the traverse of La Mygale . Standing start in the overhang, take a jug, dyno to a sloper and exit above.
- Sables Émouvants 7b, traverse. short traverse 30m behind La Mygale .
- La Traversée du Mulas 7a+, arete, traverse. 20m to the left of La Coccinelle . Start right, make the back traverse of Dernier Bal and exit in La Mulas . see also : La Mulas 6c
- Wild Card 7a, crimps, slopers. On a boulder completely to the East of the sector, above the tennis courts. 1.5m to the left of the crack of ….
- Les Monos assis 7b, slightly overhanging, sitstart, monos. behind La Coccinelle ; sitstart of Les Monos see also : Los Manos 6c, Les Monos 7a
- L’Épreuve 7b, dyno, gaten. just right of Les Monos . Jump start from a pocket right hand without touching the stone to the right and finish to the right with good holds. NB : this old problem has been rediscovered recently.
- La Ligne Blanche 7b, arete. to the right of Flagrand Désir , on a white boulder to the left of the tennis courts.
- Teddy Bear 7a, wall, bidoigt. on the boulder under Sables Émouvants , near the road. Standing start just right of Grizzli with a hold of that one left hand, take a painful bidoigt right hand and exit on characteristic lumpy holds. see also : Grizzli 6b
- Dark Room 7a+, overhang, sitstart. to the left and behind Le Frelon Vert , near the tennis courts.
- Dans les Méandres du Sable 7a, slab, mantle, crimps. slab on the exit face of the boulder of La Mygale . Start on marbled crimps, take a good pocket right hand without using the small vertical crack and exit by a mantle above. NB : a 7a+ direct version (by Loïc Le Denmat) avoiding the big pocket is also possible.
- Marmelade 7b, overhang. 50m to the left of La Mygale ; slightly morpho.
- L’Homme Élastique 7a+, slightly overhanging, prow, sitstart. on the boulder behind Le Jardinet , to the left of Halloween , 20m above the road. Sitstart on the right with a pinch left hand and a low sloper right hand and exit above with the right arete. see also : L’Homme Élastique gauche 7a (6c+)
- Nemesis 7a, pillar. 80m to the left of La Mygale , on the boulder to the right of La Découverte ou l’Ignorance . Update (April 2013) : this boulder has been downgraded to 6b, due to stupidly chipped holds. see also : Nemesis 6b
- L’Homme Élastique gauche 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart, crimps. on the boulder behind Le Jardinet , to the left of Halloween , 20m above the road. Sitstart on the right with a pinch left hand and a low sloper right hand, traverse on the left, dyno to good cimps and exit in the slab above. see also : L’Homme Élastique 7a+
- La Fourmi Verte 7b, arete. immediately to the right of Le Mépris , on the boulder of La Mygale .
14 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
- Est-ce Que C’est Ça? 7b+, arete, high, expo. Start from the ground with the pedestal of Mausolée pour Roland Bokos and, after the "jug", traverse slightly to the right and exit with the right arete. see also : Mausolée pour Roland Bokos 7c, Adrénaline Junkie 7c+
- Adrénaline Junkie 7c+, slightly overhanging, high, expo. Start from the ground with the pedestal of Mausolée pour Roland Bokos and, after the difficult part of that one, traverse to the left and exit via the arete. see also : Est-ce Que C’est Ça ? 7b+, Mausolée pour Roland Bokos 7c
- Le Mépris 7b+, wall. on the boulder with La Mygale .
- Résilience (assis) 7b+. Sitstart with the slopey right arete and another sloper in the face and exit in Résilience .
- La Mygale 7b+, traverse. Topo boulder "M". Start to the left almost behind the boulder and exit after the slab with crimps by a mantle above the crack. NB : as the slab has been lichened for years, repeaters have preferred to exit just before.
- Kiff 7b+, wall, mantle. In the west face of the boulder with Dark Room , near the tennis courts. Start in the pit. NB: brushed by Luca Modoni in 2016.
- Dernier Bal 7b+, traverse. in between La Coccinelle and La Mygale .
- Clique 7c, wall, sitstart, high. 10m above La Coccinelle . Sitstart, climb the wall and exit directly with a dyno.
- La Coccinelle 7c+, traverse. near the picknicktables NB : the grading depends on which exit you take. see also : La Coccinelle en aller-retour 8a+
- Flagrand Désir 7c, wall, high, dyno. to the left of the arete of La Ligne Blanche , on the white boulder just left of the tennis courts. Take a vertical hold left hand, dyno to a pocket and exit above. NB : start from rock is 7b+. see also : Flagrand Désir direct 6c+ (7a)
- Halloween 7c+, wall, crimps. three moves wall, 200m to the left of La Mygale . Update (October 2009) : it is likely that sand has been added on the ground, making the problem obsolete.
- La Découverte ou l’Ignorance 7b+, wall, crimps. crimpsy wall exposed South-West, 80m to the left of La Mygale . NB : it seems that this problem has been opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier with a morpho 7b start.
- Mausolée pour Roland Bokos 7c, slightly overhanging, expo, crimps. 8m high problem on the boulder "D". Jump start from the pit to the lip of the overhang, climb the face on crimps and exit at the top of the boulder. see also : Est-ce Que C’est Ça ? 7b+, Adrénaline Junkie 7c+
- Trojan War 7c+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, slopers. small overhanging arete just above the road, before the last house, underneath the boulder of Le Jardinet . Sitstart without crash-pad with a low horizontal undercling left hand and the arete right hand above a good horizontal crack, climb the overhang on slopers and exit at the top of the boulder. NB : this opening of Vincent Pochon has been rediscovered by Neil Hart.
3 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
- La Coccinelle en aller-retour 8a+, traverse. there and back of La Coccinelle .
- Les Nouveaux Pauvres 8a, overhang, traverse. start in La Mygale and exit in Le Mépris . see also : Moment de Vérité 8a (8a+)
- Moment de Vérité 8a, arete, traverse. start completely left in the big face as for La Mygale and exit in the overhanging arete of La Fourmi Verte . NB : the grade has to be confirmed. see also : Les Nouveaux Pauvres 8a
94 hors circuits
circuit
Rouge TD n°.Attached documents
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topo buthier tennis "coccinelle"
(PNG - 46 kb)
topo .png issu du .svg
Blocs magnifiques pour tous niveaux. Lieu trés fréquenté, dégradé et souvent sale. Proximité du parking de la base de loisir en cause bien sûr, mais s’y ajoute une gestion des lieux hors enceinte de la base proprement dite un peu négligé par la direction de cette base. cf Des passerelles de Buthiers.
