Tomino5+, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
Sitstart with the ledge between … and Petit Mot and exit to the right.
La Reine du Bal 5+, wall.
to the opposite of La Fissure d’Hélias , 20m after Menhir , in plot 136.
…5+, wall.
direct problem at the start of the traverse of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , on the first boulder of the sector.
Rose des Sables 5+, wall, underclings.
left problem to the opposite of Trafic d’Opium , 40m after Menhir .
La Facilité 5+, wall.
left problem to the left of the crack, on the boulder of La Coulée Verte .
Nada 6a, slab, wall.
To the opposite of Trafic d’Opium , 40m after Menhir . Start with the arete to the left of Peanuts and exit on the slab.
10 black 6a,6a+,6b
Troué par les Vers6a.
In the South face, just under the crest, in between Feuilles de Choux and Sublime Privilège .
Geidi Prime6b, wall, arete, sitstart.
Just above Dune .
Colline (droite)6b, mantle.
Just above Dune and right of Arrakis. Standing start without crash-pad with good hold as for Colline, but mantle right just left of tree with good hold.
La Beute6b, wall.
On the boulder with Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , to the right of Tomahawk. Start with a vertical crimp and exit directly.
Dessous Intrigants6b, roof, crack, sitstart.
20m to the left and above Dune or 10m to the left of Arrakis. Sitstart on the stones in the back, both hands on the undercing.
Naufrage d’un Songe 6a, sitstart.
central problem on a boulder to the East of La Salamandre.
Rose des Vents 6a, wall.
right problem to the opposite of Trafic d’Opium , 40m after Menhir .
…6a, wall, expo, gaten.
in the South face, just under the crest, in between Feuilles de Choux and Sublime Privilège . Start in a narrow corridor and climb a wall with jugs.
…6b, wall.
to the opposite of Toiles de Maîtres , on the backside of the boulder of La Salamandre .
El Gringo 6b, overhang, sitstart.
on the boulder of Sublime Privilège . Sitstart to the left of the overhang as for La Boîte de Pandore , take the good holds in the overhang and exit in the left wall.
21 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
Décontraction6c, arete, slopers.
Left arete on the boulder of Trafic d’Opium , in a marbled wall with a thin crack, 30m after Menhir .
La Fissure d’Hélias 6b+, crack, sitstart.
to the opposite of La Reine du Bal , 20m past Menhir , in the plot 136. Sitstart in a pit and climb a zigzag-shaped crack.
Petit Mot6c, mantle, sitstart.
Sitstart at the big jug in the middle of the traverse of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) and exit by a direct mantle above.
Tempête de Sable 6c, wall.
direct problem to the right of Toiles de Maîtres , 50m to the left of the boulder of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) . Update (January 2009) : broken hold...
Tomahawk6b+, arete, sitstart, crimps.
On the angle just right of the exit of the traverse of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) . Sitstart and exit with crimps.
Trafic d’Opium 6c+, wall, crack, crimps.
wall with a thin crack, 30m after Menhir .
Peanuts 7a+, pillar, sitstart.
To the opposite of Trafic d’Opium , 40m after Menhir . Start with the arete and a vertical hold right hand and exit on the pillar.
Sentimental 6b+, wall.
right problem to the left of the crack, on the boulder of La Coulée Verte .
Tome Pouce6c.
Direct problem at the beginning of the traverse of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart as for … and exit left on slopers.
Feuilles de Choux 6c, roof, sitstart.
in the North face, under the crest, on a boulder with a characteristic roof. Sitstart and exit to the right.
Dune (départ sauté)6c.
On the North face of a characteristic overhang on the ridge, to the right of La Route du Venin. Jump start.
…6c, traverse.
in the South face, just under the crest, on a boulder in between Nouvelle Vague and La Coulée Verte .
Mieux qu’un Rêve 6c+, slightly overhanging, mantle.
on the North face of the boulder of La Salamandre, 50m to the left of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) . Start to the right in a corridor and exit to the left by a mantle.
Douce Folie 6c+, expo, traverse, slopers.
on the boulder of Grain de Folie , completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse in the overhang without using the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie .
L’Oreille Cassée 6b+, traverse.
on the boulder Toiles de Maîtres , just above Le Rocher de la Salamandre. NB : the rtl traverse is also possible (same difficulty).
La Kasbah 6b+, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart.
in the North face, on the crest, 30m above and to the left of Menumental . Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle.
La Salamandre 6c, slightly overhanging, sitstart.
on le Rocher de la Salamandre, between Menumental and Mieux qu’un Rêve . Sitstart on the right with the crack right hand and exit directly. see also : La Salamandre Tachetée 7a (7a+)
Besoin de Couteau 6c, dyno.
to the left of Nouvelle Vague , in an old quarry. Start in Besoin d’Elle but finish left with big but sharp holds. see also : Besoin d’Elle 7c
Ouragan 6c+.
left problem on a boulder to the East of La Salamandre.
Filliatre 6c, wall, sitstart.
to the right of Nouvelle Vague , in an old quarry. Sitstart with a big hold near the inscription "Filliatre" and finish with an undercling, crimps and a sloper.
Clepsydre (assis)7b, pillar, sitstart.
On a boulder 20m to the right of Nouvelle Vague . Sitstart with a good sidepull left hand and a vertical crimp right hand, climb both aretes without using the boulder to the right of the crack. Morpho.
Grain de Folie 7a+, roof, expo.
on an isolated boulder to the East of the sector. Access : park at the right side near the aqueduct coming from Fontainebleau on the N152, climb up the stairs; the problem is in an obvious roof on the top. see also : Coup de Folie 7c
Clepsydre7a, pillar.
On a boulder 20m to the right of Nouvelle Vague . Standing start with both aretes without using the boulder to the right of the crack. Morpho.
La Coulée Verte 7a, wall, crack, crimps.
on a wall exposed to the South with a tree planted in its middle and a characteristic streak, on the top of the hill, 300m past Le Rocher de la Salamandre, after an old quarry and 20m before La Route du Venin. Climb the wall to the left of the streak with crimps and a thin crack. A prolongation by a 2m traverse on crimps up to the classical start is also possible (7a+). NB : a direct access consists to park the car at the underground aquaduct, to follow La Route de Milly for 1km and then to take La Route du Venin up to the top of the slope.
Venacu7a, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart.
In between Nouvelle Vague and La Coulée Verte on South quarry, where path pass just above. NB: please don’t touch the engraving on the left of this problem.
Célinette 7a, arete, high, slopers.
right arete on the boulder of Menhir , on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d’Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
Arrakis7b, traverse, slopers.
Just above Dune . Start right with both hands on good hold next right arete, traverse left and finish on top left with slopers.
Petit Privilège 7a, roof, sitstart.
on the boulder of Sublime Privilège . Sitstart to the left of the overhang as for La Boîte de Pandore and climb the roof directly to the exit of Sublime Privilège . see also : Sublime Privilège 7b+
Arrakis (retour)7a+, traverse, slopers.
Just above Dune . Start left, hands in compression on ball, traverse right and finish as for Geidi Prime.
Nino Bello 7a, crack, high, sitstart.
2m to the left of Le Concile d’Elvire , in an old quarry, 30m to the right and behind Toiles de Maîtres . Sitstart in a small roof, take the crack and exit with good holds. see also : Le Concile d’Elvire 7c (7c+)
Colline7b, mantle, slopers.
Just above Dune and right of Arrakis. Standing start without crash-pad with good hold and mantle direct with slopers.
La Salamandre Tachetée 7a, slightly overhanging, expo, sitstart.
on le Rocher de la Salamandre, between Menumental and Mieux qu’un Rêve . Sitstart on the right with the crack right hand as for La Salamandre , make an ascending traverse to the left, climb the overhang and exit at its top. see also : La Salamandre 6c
TataOuine7a+, traverse, sitstart.
Sitstart on the left as for Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , climb directly to the top as for Tome Pouce and traverse to the right with top holds, pass the prow and exit 2m to the right with a mantle as for La Beute.
Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) 7b, traverse.
park at Carrefour d’Occident, walk into the path that goes East, turn right after 30m, follow the thalweg for 150m and go up the hill on the right to find the boulder, in the North face. NB : named after as "Petit Tome" at the opening, and distorted in "Petit d’Homme" in several topos.
Menumental direct 7a+, roof, crack.
50m to the left of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , in the roof of Le Rocher de La Salamandre. Standing start as for Menumental but rather than crossing hands, take the bowl right hand, another hold on the left and exit above with the sloper right hand and the crack left hand. see also : Menumental 7b+ (7b)
Tome Facile7a, traverse.
Hanging start in the jug on the right and traverse to the left as for Grand Tome but catch to upper ledge at the big rail, continue with top holds and exit as for Grand Tome.
Toiles de Maîtres 7a+, slightly overhanging, mantle.
50m to the left of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , just above Le Rocher de la Salamandre (boulder with Mieux qu’un Rêve (and Menumental ). Start with jugs, take an oblique crack and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
Addiction7b, wall, arete.
In a marbled wall with a thin crack, 30m after Menhir . Start with the big crimp of Trafic d’Opium right hand, take a small crimp left hand and exit directly.
Courant d’Aise 7a+, dyno, sitstart, traverse.
in plot 136, 20m after and slightly underneath Menhir . Sitstart in a pit, traverse to the right and exit with a dynamic move.
La Petite Boîte de Pandore 7b+, roof, traverse, loop.
Sitstart to the left of the overhang, climb to the left of the overhang, climb La Boîte de Pandore , traverse completely around the boulder on the ledge up to the start as for La Boîte de Pandore and exit by doin Petit Privilège again. See also Sublime Privilège , La Boîte de Pandore , Petit Privilège .
Tête d’Œuf 7a+, wall, slopers, underclings.
on an egg-shaped boulder 1,5km from the parking lot, to the right of La Route de l’Occident. Standing start, take underclings and exit on slopers. NB : lichened (March 2010).
Grand Tome7b.
Hanging start in the jug on the right, make the back traverse of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) and exit in Tome Pouce.
Nouvelle Vague 7b, dyno.
dyno to the right of Besoin d’Elle . Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further.
12 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
Coup de Folie 7c, roof, expo, traverse.
on the boulder of Grain de Folie , completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse without the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie . see also : Grain de Folie 7a+
Le Concile d’Elvire 7c, slightly overhanging, high.
in an old quarry, 30m to the right and behind Toiles de Maîtres . Jump start from the stone to an oblique crimp (without crash-pad), climb the slghtly overhanging wall and exit above. see also : Nino Bello 7a (6c+)
Dune (départ sauté)7b+.
On the North face of a characteristic overhang on the ridge, to the right of La Route du Venin. Jump start.
Petit Tome (en retour-aller)7c.
Hanging start in the jug on the right, traverse to the left up to the two crimps of the exit of Tome Pouce, downclimb up to start of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) and continue by this traverse.
Grand Tome (en retour-aller)7c.
Sitstart and traverse to the right up to the jug of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , come back to the left and exit in Grand Tome.
Infinite Jest7b+, roof, dyno.
Dyno to the right of Nouvelle Vague .From the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further.
Sublime Privilège 7b+, roof, sitstart.
in a roof under the crest, in the South face. Low start and exit to the right or directly. Access : take La Route de Milly for 900m and turn left near La Route du Venin (plot 136). see also : Petit Privilège 7a
Grande TataOuine7b+, loop, sitstart.
Hanging start in the jug on the right, traverse to the left as for Grand Tome up to the left starting hold of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , climb up directly and traverse to the right with top holds as for TataOuine, pass the prow and exit 2m to the right with a mantle (a spotter is recommended for the last part).
Besoin d’Elle 7c, dyno, slopers, underclings.
dyno from underclings to the left of Nouvelle Vague . Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further. see also : Besoin de Couteau 6c
Menumental 7b+, roof, crack.
50m to the left of Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) , in the roof of Le Rocher de La Salamandre. see also : Menumental direct 7a+ (7a)
Menhir 7c, arete, high, slopers.
right arete on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d’Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome (Petit d’Homme) and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
La Boîte de Pandore 7c+, overhang, traverse.
long sequence of moves: start to the left of the classical start of Sublime Privilège , traverse completely around the boulder until the start, and end by climbing the 7b+ again.
1 Teal 8b+,8c,8c+
Dune 8b+, overhang, dyno.
on the North face of a characteristic overhang on the ridge, to the right of La Route du Venin.