1 circuit.
1 Orange 3-,3,3+
- La Voie Médiane 3, crack. Evident crack on the right face of the boulder of 14, Vautour City .
3 blue 4-,4,4+
- Runaway 4 , arete. Left problem on the right face of the boulder of 14, Vautour City .
- La Fissure de l’Onglée 4 , crack. crack to the right of L’Onglée , in the corridor behind Hale-Bopp .
- Mur’Gul 4+, wall. on the right face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Right problem, just left of the exit crack of Mémoires d’un Fou .
8 red 5-,5,5+
- Shaka 5+, arete. Underneath 22, Mosquito Coast , along the path. Standing start and climb the right side of the arete.
- Vide-Ordures 5+, wall. Between 1, Le Réta Gluant (black n°1) and the tree.
- Little Big Gueule (gauche) 5 , wall, mantle. Left start of the right problem.
- Embarras (droite) 5+, overhang. On the right face of the boulder of 14, Vautour City . Start as for Embarras but reach a right hand crimp on the right and exit above.
- Là-Haut 5+, slightly overhanging. On the boulder behind 7, Le Merluchet . Standing start without the pedestal and exit straight above; morpho.
- Le Fleuret 5 , arete. Arete right hand to the right of 34, Duel .
- Beau Style 5 , slab. in the sector Hale-Bopp , completely right on the boulder of L’Onglée .
- Boulevard 5 , slab, traverse. in the sector Hale-Bopp , on the left face of the boulder of Ciel Profond .
16 black 6a,6a+,6b
- Page de Lecture 6a, slab. in the sector Hale-Bopp . Central probelm on the boulder underneath L’Onglée .
- Le Lombrical 6a+, wall, sitstart. On a boulder 10m above 30, De Fil en Aiguille (black n°30). Sitstart with an underling left hand and a small crimp right hand.
- Plain Pied 6a, slab. in the sector Hale-Bopp . Left problem on the boulder underneath L’Onglée .
- La Traversée de la Yaloupi 6b, traverse, slopers, sitstart. In plot 766, to the right of La Route du Renardeau, coming from the former parking lot of Cuisinière, between Wu-Tang and Wall.E debout . Sitstart on the right, traverse to the left and exit in the centre, just before Yaloupi Rive Droite.
- Chute Fatale 6a, wall, expo. just right of 14, Vautour City (black n°14).
- Murinho 6a+, wall, crimps. On the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Standing start with mall sidepulls, without the crack.
- Wal-Mart 6b, wall, dyno. on the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Standing start just left of Wall.E with 2 crimps and dyno to the top.
- Kalimur 6a, arete, sitstart. on the right face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Sitstart and climb the arete left hand.
- le Moaï 6b, prow, sitstart. Sitstart of the small prow between n°1 black and 3, Excalibur (n°3 black).
- Ciel Profond (direct) 6a, mantle, slopers. To the left of Hale-Bopp . Start near the prow.
- L’Œil d’Alien 6a, wall, slopers. Next to La Route des Gorges de Franchard, going down the ridge before Hale-Bopp . Start is with an obvious big hold on the right side of the boulder, traverse a little to the left and exit straight up after a passage with slopy holds.
- Le Mur Eifel 6b, wall, crimps. Just right of the angle of Eifel, beside the boulder with orange n°22 (of the mountain circuit), on the ridge towards Hale-Bopp .
- Semelle de Plomb 6a, slab, crimps. in the sector Hale-Bopp , on the boulder of L’Onglée , to the right of the crack.
- Moon-Nigaud 6a+, traverse, wall. Standing start at the tree, traverse to the left and exit in 8, Moondance (black n°8). NB: opened in 2007.
- Dalle en Braille 6a, slab. in the sector Hale-Bopp . Right problem on the boulder underneath L’Onglée .
- La Moquette 6b, wall, mantle. On a boulder 10m above 30, De Fil en Aiguille (black n°30). Start with both hands on an undercling and exit to the right.
28 gray 6b+,6c,6c+
- Dalle en Braille (en traversée) 6c+. In the sector Hale-Bopp , underneath L’Onglée . Start completely left next to a fallen tree, traverse to the right with crimps and exit in Dalle en Braille .
- Ciel Profond 6b+, roof. to the left of Hale-Bopp . Crouching start at at flat stone, traverse to the left on slopers and exit at the top of the prow. Standing start is 6a. see also : Voûte Céleste 6c (7a)
- Midsummer Sloper 6c+, wall, slopers, crimps. just left of the GR, 50m above Déraper sur la Tête de Chien , coming from the former parking lot of La Cuisinière. Standing start in a pit with a horizontal hold low left and a sloper low right, and exit in the wall.
- Le Merluchet (en traversée) 6c+. Sitstart without crash-pad with crimps just left of the low underclings of 11, Little Big Gueule , traverse to the left and exit in 7, Le Merluchet .
- Voûte Céleste 6c+, roof, sitstart. to the left of Hale-Bopp . Sitstart completely right, traverse to the left on slopers and exit at the top of the prow as for Ciel Profond . see also : Ciel Profond 6b+
- Wu-Tang (gauche) 7a, overhang, dyno, sitstart. In plot 766, to the right of La Route du Renardeau, coming from the former parking lot of La Cuisinière. Low sitstart in the overhang and climb the crack as for Wu-Tang , but take the crimp right hand, dyno to the triangle on the left and exit above. See also Wu-Tang .
- Calé le Caribou 6c+, prow, sitstart. On the ridge, between Route Amédée and 30, De Fil en Aiguille . Sitstart at the centre of the prow and exit directly without the right part of the boulder.
- Déraper sur la Tête de Chien 6c+, mantle, slopers. at the GR11 in between the Route de l’Isatis and the Route des Gorges de Franchard (the boulder carries the red/white sign of the GR 11). Follow from the parking of Cuisinière the Route du Renardeau in the direction of Isatis; you will automatically end up on the GR11, and follow that path to the right and after 10 meters to the left in the direction of De Brevitate Vitae; after 100 meters you will find the boulder at your right hand side.
- Rataplat 6b+, slopers. Start to the right, climb to the left and exit near 33, La Teigne .
- Langue Pendante 6c+, roof, mantle. About 35m below and to the west of Hale-Bopp on the southern slope, 5m to the right of Abandonarium. Boulder is clearly visible from the Route des Gorges de Franchard. Start underneath the roof with the hands in the horizontal crack.
- … 6c+, arete, expo. left arete on the boulder underneath Hale-Bopp , on the South face near Ciel Profond .
- Leeloo 6c+, wall, sitstart. On the right face of the boulder of Wu-Tang . Sitstart with the left hand in good round pocket and the right one in a slot and exit directly with a right hand sidepull.
- C’est Dur le Matin (droite) 6c+, prow, sitstart. Opposite 25, Le Bloc à Bacchus . Sitstart as for C’est Dur le Matin and exit with the crack, to the right of the prow.
- Misère 6c, slab, crimps. direct slab without the arete just right of Paris-Chamonix , on the boulder below black n°20 and black n°21, along Route du Renardeau, before 23, La Mouche . see also : Paris-Chamonix 7c
- Eifel 6c, prow, mantle, slopers. Small prow beside the boulder with orange n°22 (of the mountain circuit), on the ridge towards Hale-Bopp . Start with a sloper left hand at the lip and the arete right hand.
- Embarras 6b+, crack, dyno. on the face to the right of 14, Vautour City (black n°14). Dyno to the edge from a diagonal crack (exit to the right is 5c).
- Le Mur Eifel (en traversée) 6c, wall, traverse, crimps. On the right face of the boulder of Eifel, beside the boulder with orange n°22 (of the mountain circuit), on the ridge towards Hale-Bopp . Standing start behing the stone with the two hands on a vertical hold, traverse to the left and exit in Le Mur Eifel.
- Méprise gauche 6c, slab, wall, dyno. 40m beyond Hale-Bopp , to the left, on the boulder of L’Onglée , in the corridor facing Niak . Start as for Méprise , but take the undercling on the left arete and dyno to the top. see also : Méprise 7b (7b+)
- Le Poids du T-Shirt 6c, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. 10m to the left of Wu-Tang . Sitstart on the pedestal with the two hands in the good hold in the middle of the face, catch the right arete, climb that one and exit at the top. NB: sitstart on the right is 6a.
- Da Moskitov 6c, prow, sitstart, slopers. to the left of 23, La Mouche (black n°23). Sitstart with the crack right hand and climb the prow (the right arete is allowed).
- Ouverture Facile 6c+, arete, sitstart, slopers. 60m above 23, La Mouche , to the left of the pass towards La Cuisinière. Sitstart without crashpad, climb the ascending arete to the right and exit at the top.
- Murinho 6c, wall, dyno, underclings. on the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Standing start with the big undercling and dyno to the top.
- Chimpanzodrome (retour) 6c, traverse. Standing start with the two hands on the left angle, make the back traverse of 24, Chimpanzodrome and exit at the end on the slab.
- L’Onglée 6c+, slab, wall, crimps. in the corridor facing Niak , behind Hale-Bopp ; right problem, without the right arete. Easier for tall climbers.
- Wall.E debout 6c, wall. on the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Standing start with an undercling for the right hand and a crimp left hand and exit in the wall above. see also : Wall.E 7a
- Santig Du 6b+, prow, sitstart, slopers. Sitstart to the right of le Moaï .
- Excalibur droite 6b+, wall, arete, slopers. right version of 3, Excalibur (with a hold right hand brushed in the starting face since the opening).
- Murat Kaplan 6c, arete, sitstart. on the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Sitstart and climb the arete right hand.
40 white 7a,7a+,7b
- Frank Réta 7b, mantle. About 20m to the right and below Hale-Bopp , exit on the round pillar.
- Accidental Tourist 7a, wall. to the left of Hale-Bopp in a corridor. Sitstart is 7b (A. Allayaud).
- Yaloupi Rive Gauche 7a, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. In plot 766, to the right of La Route du Renardeau, coming from the former parking lot of Cuisinière, between Wu-Tang and Wall.E debout . Sitstart on the left with a sloper and a sidepull left hand, take the good holds and exit on the left with a mantle on slopers.
- Célébrité et Reconnaissance 7a, traverse, slopers. on the boulder to the opposite of 5, Beatle Juice . Start with the two hands to the left of the crack, traverse to the right on slopers and exit via a mantle.
- Shaka (assis) 7a, arete, sitstart. Underneath 22, Mosquito Coast , along the path. Sitstart with the left hand on the left angle, climb the arete and mantle up at the top. NB: the video taken during the opening shows a crouching start, but a real sitstart without crash-pad is necessary for the grade.
- Cédez le Passage 7b, arete, expo. on the boulder underneath Hale-Bopp left boulder, to the right of Bellissima , with the arete left hand.
- Yaloupi Rive Droite 7a+, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. In plot 766, to the right of La Route du Renardeau, coming from the former parking lot of Cuisinière, between Wu-Tang and Wall.E debout . Sitstart on the left with a sloper and a sidepull left hand, take the good holds and exit on the right with a mantle on slopers.
- V comme Vendetta 7a+, traverse. 60m to the right of Fou Rire , on a V-shaped boulder.
- Eifel (assis) 7a, prow, sitstart, slopers. Beside the boulder with orange n°22 (of the mountain circuit), on the ridge towards Hale-Bopp . Sitstart with the left hand on a high sidepull and the right hand on the arete.
- Niak 7a+, wall, crimps. on the right side of the corridor, 30m beyond Hale-Bopp in the direction of Franchard Meyer.
- Yellow Fever 7b, slab, crimps, high. High slab on the right of 22, Mosquito Coast .
- Tirer en l’Air 7a, wall, crimps. direct wall between two trees, 10m to the left of 25, Le Bloc à Bacchus .
- Eifel (gauche) 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart, slopers. Sitstart at the prow as for Eifel (assis) but traverse to the left on bosses and exit above.
- Méprise 7b, slab, wall, crimps. 40m beyond Hale-Bopp , exposed to the South. Left problem (1m to the left of L’Onglée ) in the corridor facing Niak .
- Langue Pendante (en traversée) 7a, traverse. About 35m below and to the west of Hale-Bopp on the southern slope, 5m to the right of Abandonarium. Boulder is clearly visible from the Route des Gorges de Franchard. Start on the right, traverse to the left and exit in Langue Pendante.
- Preuve à l’Appui 7a, mantle, sitstart. sitstart at the middle of the traverse of 19, No Teacher, No Guru, No Method and exit directly by a mantle.
- Le Poids du T-Shirt (direct) 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. 10m to the left of Wu-Tang . Sitstart on the pedestal with the two hands in the good hold in the middle of the face, dyno to the sloper to the left of the arete without using the good holds on the right and exit at the top.
- Bellissima 7a, arete, expo. on the boulder underneath Hale-Bopp to the left of Cédez le Passage ; use the arete with the right hand.
- C’est Dur le Matin 7a, prow, sitstart. Opposite 25, Le Bloc à Bacchus . Sitstart on the left, to the right of the stone and exit on the prow.
- … 7a+, wall. along La Route du Renardeau, just before Paris-Chamonix . Direct marbled wall without the jug on the right; morpho.
- Plus Fort que le Crabe (raccourci) 7a+, overhang, traverse, gaten. Low sitstart on the left as 5, Beatle Juice , climb the overhang diagonally to the right, continue on the right boulder and exit just before the tree. NB: first known realization by Łukasz Jankowski.
- L’Homnivor 7a, overhang, sitstart. to the left of Hale-Bopp in a corridor. Sitstart to the right of Accidental Tourist .
- C’est Dur le Matin (direct) 7a+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Opposite 25, Le Bloc à Bacchus . Sitstart as for C’est Dur le Matin and exit directly, to the left of the prow.
- Angle d’Attaque 7a+, arete, traverse, slopers. to the right of Cédez le Passage , on the boulder underneath Hale-Bopp . Low start, climb the round arete and exit after a crack before Cédez le Passage .
- Accidental Tourist (assis) 7b, slightly overhanging, sitstart. To the left of Hale-Bopp in a corridor. Sitstart.
- Aplatcadabras 7b, traverse, slopers. high right-to-left traverse along the boulder with 33, La Teigne .
- Jambon Fumé 7a, arete, traverse, crimps. on the boulder with 20, La Cochonnaille and 21, Jambon Volant , just behind Paris-Chamonix , above La Route du Renardeau, just before the intersection with La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Start completely left with a crimp right hand, low traverse to the right and exit via the arete of 21, Jambon Volant (black n°21). see also : 21, Jambon Volant 6b
- Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (assis) 7a, wall, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart without crash-pad with a pocket right hand and a sloper left hand and exit in Déraper sur la Tête de Chien .
- La Traversée d’Excalibur 7a+, pillar, traverse, slopers. start extremely left, pass the angle and exit in 3, Excalibur or 3, Excalibur ou par Excalibur droite . see also : Excalibur droite 6b+ (6c), 3, Excalibur 7a (7a+)
- Wall.E 7a, wall, sitstart. on the left face of the boulder of Mémoires d’un Fou , at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Sitstart with horizontal holds, take the undercling en exit directly in the wall above. see also : Wall.E debout 6c
- L’Onglée (en traversée) 7a. Standing start at the left angle, mantle up on edges, traverse for 1m50 and exit in L’Onglée .
- L’Homme à la Dent Creuse 7b, overhang, dyno, sitstart. start as 5, Beatle Juice but exit direct with two dynos on pinches. see also : 5, Beatle Juice 7a+, Plus Fort que le Crabe 7b+
- Wu-Tang 7a+, overhang, sitstart. in plot 766, to the right of La Route du Renardeau, coming from the former parking lot of La Cuisinière. Low sitstart in the overhang, climb the crack and exit above by using a heel hook and a crimp in the right face. NB : any information about this apparently old problem would be appreciated.
- Gégé Doigts d’Acier 7a, slightly overhanging, crimps. to the right of 23, La Mouche .
- Le Troufion Orque 7a, prow, sitstart. On the ridge, between Route Amédée and 30, De Fil en Aiguille . Sitstart with an evident hold and a sloper left hand, climb the prow to a horizontal crack, take a pocket right hand and exit on the left with a chicken head.
- Lady of the Lake 7b, overhang, sitstart, slopers. on a small boulder to the right and behind 5, Beatle Juice . Low sitstart with an undercling and exit in the roof on slopers.
- Le Mur Paumé 7a+, wall, sitstart, crimps. in the North face, in the slope above La Route Amédée, on the boulder to the left of 30, De Fil en Aiguille , 30m before 32, La Châtaigne . Sitstart on the left with two slopers, take a round crimp left hand and a sharp one right hand and exit in the wall above.
- Orion 7b, arete. arete to the right of Hale-Bopp .
- Le Troufion Orque (droite) 7b, prow, sitstart. On the ridge, between Route Amédée and 30, De Fil en Aiguille . Sitstart with an evident hold and a sloper left hand, climb the prow to a horizontal crack, take a pocket left hand and exit on the right with slopers.
- Main Courante 7b, arete, expo. 20m to the right of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin . NB : at least two crash-pads are necessary for this problem.
18 purple 7b+,7c,7c+
- Olé 7c. this problem is possibly a game, starting in 23, La Mouche and exiting in Gégé Doigts d’Acier after a low traverse. NB : ’folklore’ problem known at the end of the 80’s. NB : information welcome!
- La Teigne 7c+, dyno. Above 34, Duel . 7a+ before undercling broke off.
- La Chose 7c+, wall, slopers. to the left of 31, La Jolie Bouse (black n°31).
- Mos Def 7b+, slightly overhanging, crack, sitstart. 1m50 on the right of Wu-Tang . Sitstart with good holds, climb the crack and exit on the right with slopers (without the chipped hold by convention).
- Peau de Chagrin 7c+, slab, crimps. 1m50 to the left of 34, Duel .
- Tricotage 7c. In the North face, in the slope above La Route Amédée, 40m before 32, La Châtaigne . Sitstart with a low pocket to the right of 30, De Fil en Aiguille , take the crack left hand and exit directly.
- Hale-Bopp 7c, dyno. at the ridge, 200m above 34, Duel , along the Sentier Orange. Grade somewhere between 7 and 8 depending on your length.
- Abandonarium 7c, crimps, underclings, sitstart. About 30m below and West of Hale-Bopp on South slope. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb overhang, mantle in high slab and exit on top of it.
- Chatterton 7c, dyno. fun in between Hale-Bopp and Orion . Without holds for the hands to the top after running (ungradable "run and jump").
- Rampe Glissante et Non Courante 7b+, traverse. Traverse on two faces 20m underneath Main Courante .
- Les Visiteurs 7c. to the right of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin .
- Plus Fort que le Crabe 7b+, overhang, traverse, gaten. low sitstart on the left as 5, Beatle Juice , climb the overhang diagonally to the right, continue on the right boulder but exit in 6, Santa Barbara (black n°6 but also with an old n°7) after a stone on the ground. see also : 5, Beatle Juice 7a+, L’Homme à la Dent Creuse 7b
- La Goutte au Nez 7c, arete, sitstart, crimps. nose-shaped arete to the left of Hale-Bopp . Sitstart left on the small rock, climb the arete using crimps and exit on slopers at the same point of Ciel Profond .
- Mémoires d’un Fou 7c, traverse, crimps. traverse on two faces at the end of plot n°766, in the triangle formed by the GR and the routes of Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard, 10m after Midsummer Sloper . Start completely left, traverse with crimps, pass the angle and exit in the crack just right of Mur’Gul .
- Paris-Chamonix 7c, wall. in the middle of the boulder below 20, La Cochonnaille and 21, Jambon Volant , along La Route du Renardeau, before 23, La Mouche . Initially proposed as a 7a+, but certainly 7c (lichenous in 2007).
- Solaris 7c+, overhang, slopers. just right of Les Visiteurs , on the boulder of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin .
- Poetic Champion Traverse (par le bas) 7b+, traverse. to the left of La Route du Renardeau. Traverse to the left as for 19bis, Poetic Champion Traverse (black n°19 bis), but without top holds. see also : 19bis, Poetic Champion Traverse 7a
- Croissance Zéro 7c, traverse, crimps. 30m above 23, La Mouche , on a ridge.
6 burgundy 8a,8a+,8b
- Fou Rire (droite-gauche) 8b, traverse. to the left of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin , above La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Right to left version of album8498.1. Start extremely right or at the crack (easier). see also : Fou Rire 8b+ (8c), Fou Rire en aller-retour 9a
- Grain de Beauté 8a, traverse. at the end of plot n°764, in the triangle formed by the paths Mendel (GR1), Renardeau and Gorges de Franchard. Eliminating : without upper ledge.
- La Chose assis 8a+, wall, sitstart, slopers. to the left of 31, La Jolie Bouse (black n°31). Start with a bidoigt right hand and a mono for the left one and exit in the classical version of La Chose . see also : La Chose 7c+
- Évidence 8a, prow, expo. Start with the pedestal, exit on the left prow. To the left of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin , 26 black ED+.
- Duel direct 8a+, slab, crimps. over the Route Amédée, in the direction of Franchard Meyer. 34, Duel , with left exit. Update : broken foot hold (november 2004).
- Hale-Bopp assis 8a+, dyno. sitstart of Hale-Bopp .
2 Teal 8b+,8c,8c+
- Fou Rire 8b+, traverse. to the left and to the opposite of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin , above La Route des Gorges de Franchard. see also : album8498.1 8b (8b+), Fou Rire en aller-retour 9a
- Mémoires d’un Fou (retour-aller) 8c, traverse, crimps. Start just left of a mossy crack, traverse on two faces up to a characteristic hold on the left of a thin crack (start of the classical version) and come back to the starring point (60 moves). NB: first climbed in May 2020.
1 pomme 9a,9a+,9b
- Fou Rire en aller-retour 9a, traverse. there and back of Fou Rire , to the left and to the opposite of 26, Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin , above La Route des Gorges de Franchard. see also : album8498.1 8b (8b+), Fou Rire 8b+ (8c)
123 hors circuits
circuit
Noir ED n°6crête au Sud de franchard cuisinière se poursuivant sur Meyer et au delà.
