bLo: Gorges du Houx Oiseaux de Proie

Petits secteurs dispersés. 2 circuits.

Ligne de Fuite 5-, arete. Sector 2. Arete left hand on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
Canon Rock 1 5+. Sector 2. On the East face of the second boulder of the sector. 6a+ in sitstart. See also : Canon Rock 2 6b+
Idée Fixe 5 , crack, sitstart. Sector 2. Crack on the North face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
Aigre-Doux 5 , slab. Sector 2. second problem from the right on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
Catch en Dalle 5-, slab. Sector 2. second problem from the left on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
Calamine 5+, slab. Sector 2. left problem on the South face of the first boulder of the sector.
La Spirale 5 , wall. Sector 3. ascending wall in a "tube", in the South of the sector.
L’Angle Escalier 5-, arete. Sector 3. arete left hand to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague . see also : L’Avant-Goût 4-
Pince de Pied 5 , arete. Sector 3. right arete to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague .
Vigilance 5 , wall. Sector 3. to the left of Faire et Défaire , to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague .
Que la Masse Cote direct 5+, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sector 3. small roof 30m underneath La Diagonale . Sitstart at the right of the overhang as for Que la Masse Cote and exit above with good holds. see also : Que la Masse Cote 7a (7c)
Faire et Défaire 5+, arete. Sector 3. quarry arete near Au Creux de la Vague .
L’Humiliation 5+, slab. Sector 3. slab in a small corridor.
Haribo 5 , wall, underclings. Sector 3. wall with an undercling left hand near Au Creux de la Vague .
La Fissure 5+, wall, crack. Sector 3. evident crack on the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
Cracmol (gauche) 5 , wall, crimps. Left problem on the left face of the boulder of Karmoi, behind the boulder with the character "U".
La Meurtrière 5+, slab. On the boulder to the opposite of Bicarburation . Start to the right of the stone with a diagonal crack.
La Pointe 5 , wall, arete. Just 2m from Bicarburation . Start with a pocket left hand.
Jeux de Mains 5+, slightly overhanging, dyno. 100m to the East of Bicarburation , after the path leading to Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie, in a quarry zone with fallen trees. Direct problem on the boulder with Rouleau Sauvage , to the left of Jeu de Vilains.
La Meurtrière (droite) 5-, slab. On the boulder to the opposite of Bicarburation . Start as La Meurtrière traverse to the right and exit above the stone.
Chamouni 5+, wall. To the right of Nyctalus Noctula, just under the plateau, before the cave.
La Fortification 5 , wall, sitstart. Small wall on the boulder to the left of La Meurtrière.
Le Pavé 5+, wall, mantle, slopers. Just under the plateau, before Bicarburation . Standing start on the right and exit diagonally to the left.
Petite Chaleur 5+, mantle. Crouching start on the right on the pedestal with the ledge in the back of the roof and exit in Toit de Chaleur. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Le Réta du Pavé 5+, wall, mantle, slopers. Just under the plateau, before Bicarburation . Standing start on the right and exit directly.
Le Petit Pavé 5+, wall. On the boulder just left of Le Pavé, before Bicarburation .
Cracmol 5-, wall, crimps. Right problem on the left face of the boulder of Karmoi, behind the boulder with the character "U".
Cracmol (assis) 5 , wall, sitstart, crimps. On the left face of the boulder of Karmoi, behind the boulder with the character "U". Sitstart at the angle and exit by the cimpsy wall above.

La Rampette 6a, arete, sitstart. Sector 2. Oblique arete to the right on the South face of the second boulder of the sector.
Le Suppositoire 6a, wall, arete, expo. Sector 2. Arete right hand on the East face of the second boulder of the sector.
Prouesse 6b, prow. Sector 2. Long prow on the North face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
Soif d’Action 6b, wall, slightly overhanging, sitstart. Sector 2. On the West face of the last boulder of the sector.
Petite Merveille 6a, wall. Sector 2. Direct wall on the East face of the first boulder of the sector.
Profil droit 6b, slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart. Sector 2. on the West face of the first boulder of the sector. see also : Profil gauche 6a+
Profil gauche 6a+, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. Sector 2. Arete right hand on the first boulder of the sector. see also : Profil droit 6b
Naufrage 6a, crack. Sector 2. Crack on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
Camisole 6b, wall. Sector 2. Second problem from the right on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
La Craignos 6b, wall. Sector 3. above a small round block.
Touche-Touche 6b, wall. Sector 3. in a corridor, behind Au Creux de la Vague .
L’Astuce 6b, wall, arete, slopers. Sector 3. round wall-arete in the South of the sector.
Le Cake 6a, wall. Sector 3. to the left of Haribo , near Au Creux de la Vague .
Zip à toute Heure 6b, slab. Sector 3. to the left of Dalle is not Dead , on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale . NB : recently rebrushed (August 2010).
Totale Torsion 6b, wall, crimps. Sector 3. to the right of La Fissure , on the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
La Der de Dalle 6b, slab. Sector 3. on the North face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril .
L’Angle du Pavé 6a, wall, arete, mantle. Arete left hand just under the plateau, before Bicarburation .
Accio 6a+, wall, dyno, mantle. Right problem on the boulder of Karmoi, on the left when descending the blue path n°7, behind the boulder with the character "U". Start right at an old yellow problem, traverse to the left up to a jug and mantle up above.
Potiron 6a+, overhang, sitstart. Along the blue path, 15m to the East of the character "T".
Orphéon 6a, slab. Sector 2. Slab on the West face of the last but one boulder of the sector.
Suspicion 6b, slightly overhanging, sitstart. This small boulder is located about 100m northeast of the Carrefour des Oiseaux de Preie, in the extension to the east of a low ridge.
Jeu de Vilains 6a, dyno. 100m to the East of Bicarburation , after the path leading to Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie, in a quarry zone with fallen trees. Dyno on the boulder with Rouleau Sauvage , to the right of Jeux de Mains.
Réta en Joie 6b, roof, mantle. On the boulder just right of Il n’est Jamais Trop Tard, before Fatwoman . Start with the big ledge under the roof and exit with a mantle.
La Meurtrière (direct) 6b, slab. On the boulder to the opposite of Bicarburation . Start to the right of La Meurtrière and exit at the highest point without taking the left arete.
Purgatoire 6b. On the left side of an old quarry bivouac, just left of Route Jean, 125m from Route des Gorges de Franchard; mossy.
Toit de Chaleur 6b, roof, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart to the right of Première Vague Caniculaire and exit on the right in Petite Chaleur. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Sang-de-Bourbe 6a+. Standing start in the marbled face, dyno to a jug and mantle up above. See also Accio (6a+)
Juste Parfait 6b, overhang, sitstart. Direct overhang at the crossing between the blue path n°7 and La Route Jean.
Guili Golo 6a, roof, sitstart. On the plateau, in between Bicarburation and Le Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie. Low sitstart, climb the roof and exit on the left.

La Tangente du Fou 6b+, dyno. Sector 1. Just right of L’Hypoténuse du Fou . Start with a gaston right hand and the horizontal crack left hand.
Doublet 6c+, slightly overhanging, mantle. Sector 1. Left problem in an overhang on the left of La Route du Mont Aigu, at a bend to the right coming down. Start at the horizontal ledge, climb the overhang to the left, take a bidoigt and mantle up above. NB : it is also possible, from the bidoigt, to traverse up to the "nose" of the boulder and exit at this point. see also : Tribune 7b
Cholestérol 6c, wall. Sector 2. Second problem from the left on the North face of the first boulder of the sector.
Canon Rock 2 6b+, crack, sitstart. Sector 2. Direct crack on the East face of the second boulder of the sector. see also : Canon Rock 1 6a+
Contorsion 6c. Sector 2. On the North face of the last boulder of the sector.
Indochine 6c+, wall, crimps. Sector 3. on the East face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril and Hold-Up . Start just right of Collez Serrez (morpho) and exit either with the crack right hand (6c) or without (7a). see also : Collez Serrez 7a (6c)
Collez Serrez 6c+, wall, crimps. Sector 3. direct problem on the East face of the boulder of Poison d’Avril , without the right crack.
Traîtresse 6b+, slab. Sector 3. in between Exile and Joli Cœur . Start on the step, take a vertical crimp and exit with pockets.
La Rondelette 6c. Sector 3. to the right of La Route Guillaume Rondelet, on a boulder to the opposite of Poison d’Avril .
Bloc l’Éponge (gauche) 6c+, traverse, roof, sitstart. Crouching start on the right pillar of the bivouac as for Bloc l’Éponge , traverse to the left with top holds and exit as for À l’Endroit .
Moins que Pire 6c, overhang, sitstart, traverse. At the crossing between the blue path n°7 and La Route Jean. Sitstart, traverse to the right in the overhang and exit on the right angle.
Stéréotomie (assis) 6c+, wall, arete, sitstart. Direct problem just under the plateau, before Fatwoman . Sitstart and exit in Le Pavé (direct).
Sang sur Prise 6c. Behind the boulder with the character "U". Standing start as for Karmoi, but exit by a mantle on slopers on the left of the arete.
Épaufrure 6c+, arete. Arete just under the plateau, before Fatwoman . To the right of Le Réta du Pavé.
Pour le Plaisir 6b+, traverse, mantle. On the boulder just right of Il n’est Jamais Trop Tard, before Fatwoman . Start on the right with the big ledge under the roof, traverse to the left and exit with a mantle as for Réta en Joie.
Bloc l’Éponge 6c, roof, mantle, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right pillar of the bivouac entrance, climb the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
Pafwoman 7a+, slightly overhanging, arete, slopers. Standing start with the flake of Pif, Paf, Pouf , dyno to the lip of the roof, downclimb the arete and exit by the crack of Fatwoman light . NB : first known realization by Filip Notebaert. See also Pif, Paf, Pouf , Fatwoman , Fatwoman light , Fatwoman light en traversée , Goranovitch , Goranovsky .
Travail Soigné 6c+, arete, mantle, sitstart. On the plateau, in between Bicarburation and Le Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie, in a pit behind Guili Golo. Sitstart with the arete and exit on the slab.
Fatwoman light 6c, overhang, crack, mantle. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Start slightly to the right of Pif, Paf, Pouf as for Fatwoman , but exit directly in the right crack via a mantle.
Pouf, Paf, Pif 6c. Standing start with the flake of Pif, Paf, Pouf , traverse with the holds in the middle of the overhang and exit via the left arete.
La Ligne Franche 6c, arete, sitstart. On the plateau, in between Bicarburation and Le Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie, behind Guili Golo and Travail Soigné. Sitstart with the arete right hand.
Le Pavé (direct) 6c, wall, mantle, slopers. Direct problem just under the plateau, before Bicarburation .
Quatre Encoches 6c, traverse, arete. On the plateau, in between Bicarburation and Le Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie, behind Guili Golo and Travail Soigné. Start on the left with the arete, traverse to the right and exit as for La Ligne Franche.
Sang sur Prise (assis) 6c+, arete, mantle, slopers. Behind the boulder with the character "U". Sitstart as for Karmoi (assis), but exit by a mantle on slopers on the left of the arete.
Première Vague Caniculaire (droite) 6c+, traverse, roof, sitstart. Sitstart in the centre of the roof as for Première Vague Caniculaire and exit on the right in Toit de Chaleur. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Ridikkulus 6c+, mantle, traverse, slopers. Standing start as for Karmoi, traverse to the right on slopers and exit in Sang-de-Bourbe.
Première Vague Caniculaire (gauche) 6c+, prow, sitstart. Sitstart in the centre of the roof as for Première Vague Caniculaire and exit on the left. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Pygmy Woman 6c+, roof, sitstart, gaten. In the overhang 5m to the left of Fatwoman . Sitstart with a monodoigt in the roof and a pocket on the arete and climb the bulge without using the pedestal on the left and the right part of the boulder.
Expérience Intérieure 6c+, roof, crack. Under the top of the hill 127, 10m underneath Dégoupillage, about 150m to the southeast of the main area. Start on the stuck stones in the back of the roof.
Rouleau Sauvage 6c, traverse. 50m to the East of Fatwoman , in a quarry zone with lying trees. Start left in the overhang, traverse on the right up to the end of the ledge, come back and exit by a mantle at the starting point.
Une Petite Cigarette du Sport 6c+, prow, arete, sitstart. Behind Bicarburation , next to the bivouac. Sitstart with a good hold and climb the arete.

La Diagonale du Fou 7a+, overhang, crack. Sector 1. Dyno in 45 degrees overhanging wall. Done with rope.
Black or White 7a+, roof. Sector 1. In the cave of Parjure, "Q" mark of the blue trail. Start left without using the stone wall, exit right in the middle of the cave.
Tribune 7b, slightly overhanging, mantle. Sector 1. Right problem in an overhang on the left of La Route du Mont Aigu, at a bend to the right coming down. Start from the horizontal ramp and exit right above the slope. see also : Doublet 6c+
Vertige Oblique 7a+, wall, expo. Sector 1. Start from the ground in the center of the face, climb the crimpsy wall and finish diagonally to the left, take the oblique arete and exit by a mantle above. NB : this problem is referred to as "P’tit Paradis" in some guidebooks but this is an old confusion with the generic neme of the sector next dor.
L’Hypoténuse du Fou 7a, slightly overhanging, dyno. Sector 1. Standing start to the right of La Diagonale du Fou with a horizontal crack, dyno to the arete and exit above. NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the right at a good crack (7a+).
P’tit Paradis 7a+, wall, expo. Secteur 1. confusion with Vertige Oblique . (near the start of the yellow circuit, 20m underneath La Diagonale du Fou ).
Braquage à l’Italienne 7b, arete, traverse, slopers. Sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart to the right of the overhang as for Poison d’Avril assis , low traverse to the left up to the start of the arete of Braquage and exit by that one. see also : Braquage 7a+
Braquage 7a+, arete, expo, slopers. Sector 3. round arete to the left of Hold-Up on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart with a good hold left hand, climb the arete and exit to the right as for Hold-Up . NB : the pedestal on the left is allowed. see also : Braquage à l’Italienne 7b (7b+)
Hold-Up 7a, roof, arete. Sector 3. on the South-Ouest face of the boulder of Collez Serrez . above a small boulder. Start in the pit, dyno to the right arete and exit above. see also : Hold-Up à l’Italienne 7c (7b+)
Que la Masse Cote 7b, roof, sitstart. Sector 3. small roof 30m underneath La Diagonale . Sitstart at the right of the overhang, traverse to the left up to the "nose" of the roof and exit above. see also : Que la Masse Cote direct 5+ (6a)
Vache de Bouse 7b, slab. Sector 3. small slab in a pit, to the South of the main sector.
Cambrure Divine 7b, slightly overhanging, expo, sitstart. Sector 3. evident overhang to the left of Au Creux de la Vague . Sitstart in the pit on a flat stone, climb the pillar and then the overhang and exit above with crimps and the two aretes; morpho.
La Diagonale 7a, slab, crimps. Sector 3. on the South face of the boulder of Dalle is not Dead . Start at a good hold, make an ascending traverse on crimps and exit to the right of a small tree. NB : the slab has been rebrushed (June 2012).
Dalle is not Dead 7a, slab. Sector 3. right problem on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale . NB : recently rebrushed (August 2010)..
Au Creux de la Vague 7a+, slightly overhanging, prow. Sector 3. on the West face of a boulder near La Route Guillaume Rondelet.
Cambrure Divine 7b, slightly overhanging, expo. Sector 3. Evident overhang to the left of Au Creux de la Vague . Standing start in the pit on a flat stone, climb the pillar and then the overhang and exit above with crimps and the two aretes; morpho. See also Cambrure Divine .
Poison d’Avril assis 7a+, arete, expo, sitstart. Sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart and exit by the slightly overhanging arete of Poison d’Avril . see also : Poison d’Avril 7a, La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+ (7c)
Poison d’Avril 7a, slightly overhanging, arete. Sector 3. to the right of Hold-Up . see also : Poison d’Avril assis 7a+, La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+ (7c)
Joli Cœur 7b, wall. sector 5. at the right on the boulder of Les Thanatonautes , with a hart-shaped hole. Might be no longer possible after foothold broke off!
Exile 7b, slab. sector 5. to the right of Les Thanatonautes . Start to the left of the step (starting point of the 6b+ slab Traîtresse ) and exit directly on crimps.
Première Vague Caniculaire (en traversée) 7b, traverse, roof, mantle. Hanging start with the lip to the right of Toit de Chaleur, traverse to the left and exit in Première Vague Caniculaire. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
À l’Endroit (aller-retour) 7b. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the right angle, traverse on the ledge up to the left one, come back and exit via the right arete.
Oiseaux de Proie 7a, traverse. follow the Route du Mont Aigu (GR 11) to the start of the yellow circuit and go up to the right; the traverse is located in a slighly overhanging wall with a flat stone on the ground. NB : lichenous (May 2007).
Bloc l’Éponge (droite) 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart, traverse. Sitstart as for Bloc l’Éponge , traverse to the right and finish with right arete as for À l’Endroit (retour). NB: first ascent known by Yohann Morvan.
D’une Canicule à l’Autre 7a+, traverse, roof, sitstart. Sitstart underneath the exit of Première Vague Caniculaire (gauche), traverse to the right and exit after the arete. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Nyctalus Noctula 7a, overhang. Left problem in an overhang just under the plateau, before the cave. NB: please do not climb that problem if the flake seems to be occupied by bats.
Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a, slightly overhanging, sitstart. left problem in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart as for Fatwoman and exit at the same point, by climbing the overhang directly with a fragile flake. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
L’Été à l’Horizon 7a, overhang, crack, sitstart. On a boulder 50m to the east of Bicarburation , just before the path leading to Carrefour des Oiseaux de Proie. Sitstart with the crack and exit o the left.
Karmoi (assis) 7a+, arete, sitstart, slopers. On a boulder on the left when descending the blue path n°7, behind the boulder with the character "U". Sitstart at the arete, climb this one left hand and exit right on slopers
Fatwoman 7a, slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart. right problem in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Same start, same exit as Pif, Paf, Pouf , but using the right arete. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
Il n’est Jamais Trop Tard 7a+, overhang. On the boulder just right of Le Pavé, before Fatwoman . Standing start left of Le Surplomb du Pavé.
Karmoi 7a, wall, arete, slopers. On a boulder on the left when descending the blue path n°7, behind the boulder with the character "U". Standing start, climb the arete left hand and exit right on slopers.
À l’Endroit 7a+, traverse, slopers. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right angle, traverse on the ledge and exit via a mantle at the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
Le Bi se Marque (droite) 7b, roof, traverse, sitstart. On the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi Haut , climb the roof, traverse to the right and finish completly right as for À l’Endroit (retour).
Goranovsky 7b, slightly overhanging, expo, sitstart. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart on a flat stone to the left of Fatwoman as for Pif, Paf, Pouf but continue to traverse on the arete and exit by the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovitch 7b+
Impedimenta 7a+, mantle, traverse, slopers. On the boulder of Karmoi, on the left when descending the blue path n°7, behind the boulder with the character "U". Start right at an old yellow problem, traverse to the left and exit as for Sang sur Prise, on the left of the arete.
Le Bi se Marque 7a+, roof, mantle, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi Haut , climb the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
Lance à Droite (assis) 7b, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart. On the backside of the boulder of album 254612. Sitstart with a flat oblique hold right hand and the ramp left hand, climb the overhang and dyno to the lip on the right.
Carburation Verticale 7a+, arete, slopers, crimps. 10m to the right of Bicarburation .Bicarburation . Standing start with the crimps on the left face, take the right arete and exit by a mantle at the top.
Sus-Épineux 7a, sitstart, traverse, crimps. On the left face of the boulder of Karmoi, behind the boulder with the character "U". Sitstart just right of the angle, low traverse to the left with crimps and mantle up at the left angle.
Le Bi Haut 7b, mantle, traverse, bidoigt. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi se Marque , dyno to the left in the roof and exit via a mantle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
Le Bi Yo Masse 7b, traverse, roof, slopers. Sitstart left as for Le Bi Yo Back and continue to traverse right to finish as for À l’Endroit (retour).
Ridikkulus (assis) 7a, sitstart, traverse, slopers. Sitstart as for Karmoi (assis), traverse to the right on slopers and exit in Sang-de-Bourbe.
Fatwoman light en traversée 7a, overhang, crack, mantle. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart completely left in Pif, Paf, Pouf , low traverse up to the bidoigt and exit in Fatwoman light . see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+), Goranovitch 7b+
Coquille Saint Jacques 7b, traverse. Sitstart in album 265361 or album 60878, traverse low to the right and exit at the end.
Super Ridikkulus Ultra Retour Inverse Prolongé 7b, traverse, slopers, crimps. On the boulder of Karmoi. Start Impedimenta, downclimb Ridikkulus and exit in Cracmol.
Première Vague Caniculaire 7a, roof, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart in the centre of the roof and exit directly. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
Indochine (direct) 7a, wall. Start just right of Collez Serrez and exit directly without using the crack.
Le Bi Yo 7b, traverse, roof, bidoigt. On the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi se Marque , climb the roof and exit as for Bicarburation . At the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry.
Première Vague Caniculaire (rallongé) 7a+, roof, mantle, sitstart. Sitstart on the right with the ledge in the back of the roof and exit in Première Vague Caniculaire. From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
L’Hypoténuse du Fou (assis) 7a+, slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart. Sitstart on the left at the pedestal and exit in L’Hypoténuse du Fou . NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the right at a good crack (7a+/7b). See also La Diagonale du Fou , L’Hypoténuse du Fou , La Tangente du Fou .
Le Bi Yo Back 7a+, traverse, roof, bidoigt. On the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Sitstart left as for Bicarburation (retour), traverse in the roof and exit with a mantle as for Le Bi Haut .
Bord de Canicule 7a+, traverse, roof. Hanging start with the lip to the right of Toit de Chaleur, traverse to the left and exit in Première Vague Caniculaire (gauche). From the Carrefour de la Croix de Franchard, take the Route de l’Ermitage (east) for about 200m, pass the Route de Mazarin, the boulder is 10m to the right.
À l’Endroit (retour) 7a+. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the left angle, traverse with top holds and exit with the right arete.
Lance à Droite 7a. On the backside of the boulder of album 254612. Standing start with the two hands in a diagonal hold and dyno to the lip on the right.

Fou de Bleau 7b+, pillar, expo, sitstart. Sector 1. High cracteristic pillar, on the same boulder and to the left of Vertige Oblique , 20m underneath La Diagonale du Fou . Sitstart with the two hands on the lower ledge and exit either directly (7b) or by the right arete to its end (7b+/7c).
La Traversée de Poison d’Avril 7b+, arete, expo, traverse. sector 3. fltr on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart completely left as for Braquage with good underclings, low traverse to the right and exit by the slightly overhanging arete of Poison d’Avril . see also : Poison d’Avril 7a, Poison d’Avril assis 7a+
Hold-Up à l’Italienne 7c, arete, expo, sitstart. sector 3. on the boulder of Collez Serrez . Sitstart on the right of the overhang as for Poison d’Avril assis , low traverse to the left and exit in Hold-Up . see also : Hold-Up 7a
Les Thanatonautes 7c, wall. Sector 5. 6m high wall above a big roof alongside La Route des Gorges du Franchard. Only climbs the wall with a right start. see also : Tube 8a
Le Bi Haut Woman (droite) 7c, roof, traverse. Crouching start on the right pillar of the bivouac as for Bloc l’Éponge , traverse to the left with bidoigts under the roof, climb it as for Le Bi Haut then traverse to the right and finish completly right as for À l’Endroit (retour).
À l’Envers 7c+, traverse. on the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the right pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Bloc l’Éponge and continue in Bicarburation . Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is behind a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Bicarburation 8a
Goranovitch 7b+, slightly overhanging, arete, expo. in an overhang 10m before Bicarburation . Sitstart to the right of Pif, Paf, Pouf as for Fatwoman but continue to traverse on the arete and exit by the left angle. Access : at the end of the paved road, go up the hill to the plateau; the boulder is before a tagged shelter at the end of the quarry. see also : Fatwoman light 6c (6c+), Fatwoman light en traversée 7a (6c+), Pif, Paf, Pouf 7a (7a+), Fatwoman 7a (7a+), Goranovsky 7b (7b+)
Bicarburation (retour) 7c+. Sitstart under the exit angle of Bicarburation , traverse under the roof, continue on the ledge and exit on th eright arete.
À l’Endroit (retour-aller) 7b+. On the boulder of Bicarburation . Start at the left angle, traverse to the right with top holds up to the right one, come back and mantle up at the angle above the starting point.
Le Bi Haut Woman 7b+, traverse, bidoigt, roof. Crouching start on the right pillar of the bivouac as for Bloc l’Éponge , traverse to the left with bidoigts and exit in Le Bi Haut .
Black or White (rallongé) 7b+. Start in the back of the cave with an undercling, traverse to the left, without using the stone wall, exit right in the middle of the cave as for Black or White. In the cave opposite the boulder with the letter "P" and yellow n°4, 30m to the left of La Route du Mont Aigu, 150m before the crossing with La Route Jean when coming from the parking lot.
Le Bi Haut (droite) 7b+, roof, traverse, sitstart. On the boulder of Bicarburation , at the end of a quarry, under the plateau, to the left of de La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in direction of La Gorge du Houx. Start at the left pillar of the bivouac entrance, as for Le Bi se Marque , dyno to the left in the roof, traverse to the right and finish completly right as for À l’Endroit (retour).

Jaune PD- n°1

Orange AD n°.

Relier ces petits secteurs se situant dans un rayon de 250 m permet aux grimpeurs moyens qui ne passent pas leur séance sur un bloc d’en avoir pour leurs comptes, cf topo :
secteur 1 du jaune et orange, secteur * en passant (2 voies), secteur 2 le rocher du renard, secteur 3 le petit paradis, secteur 4 Oiseaux de Proie. Secteur tube ! un bloc.
Remarque : la route des oiseaux de proies est interrompue sur le topo, et effectivement mieux vaut ne pas essayer emprunter cette voie pour relier les secteurs 3 et 4 !

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